description: Testarossa reserves their most expensive wines to a best-barrels blend that usually bears a statewide appellation, a practice that is rare if not unique among California wineries. The '07 Niclaire is vast in currants, rhubarbs, cola and cedar, with sizable but finely meshed tannins, and the tart acidity that marks all of the winery's 2007 Pinot Noirs. It's drinkable now, but just barely, so decant. But will benefit from up to six years in the cellar.