description: A funky whiff of yeast has to blow off before wonderfully pure orange zest notes appear. The palate has a wonderful richness of texture, something earthy with a pithy, beautiful grip. The flavors are still taut, for now (just zesty aromatic orange peel) but much more still hides and sleeps below the surface. This is powerful and concentrated, with a lovely and enduring backbone of freshness. This needs bottle age to come into its own. The finish is fresh, clean and lasting. Drink 2020–2037.