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37,170 |
Microsoft Band Wrist Clasp Replacement
|
Microsoft Band
|
Easy
|
[
"T3 Torx Screwdriver"
] | 300 | 600 |
This is a Microsoft Band Wrist Clasp Replacement guide. Device: Microsoft Band. Difficulty: Easy. Tools needed: T3 Torx Screwdriver. Time required: 300-600 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Using the T3 Torx Screwdriver, remove the two 2.00mm long screws from the inside of the clasp. 2) Remove the metal plate with the serial and model number on it by pulling it straight up around the two hooks. 3) Pull the two securing pins out of the rubberized part of the band.
|
guide_overview
|
|
60,947 |
Garmin Fenix 2 Display Replacement
|
Garmin Fenix 2
|
Difficult
|
[
"Spudger",
"TR9 Torx Security Screwdriver"
] | 540 | 540 |
This is a Garmin Fenix 2 Display Replacement guide. Device: Garmin Fenix 2. Difficulty: Difficult. Tools needed: Spudger, TR9 Torx Security Screwdriver. Time required: 540-540 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Use a Torx T9 screwdriver to remove these four .8mm screws and seperate the housing. 2) Use a spudger tool to disengage the power ribbon from the main board. Once the ribbon is disconnected you can separate the bottom piece of the housing that holds the battery. 3) Use the spudger tool again and wedge it in between the battery and the housing, pry until the battery starts to separate from the adhesive holding it in place. Once you have the battery disconnected you are ready to replace it. Despite the fact that the metal spudger is shown being used in this step, make sure to use a plastic opening tool or nylon spudger to pry up the battery. The metal spudger has a much larger chance of puncturing the battery, and thus should not be used. 4) Use a spudger to pry open the power ribbon from the main board. 5) Use your Torx T9 screwdriver to remove the one .8mm screw that holds the main board to the watch housing. 6) Use the spudger to pry the motherboard out of the housing. 7) Once removed simply separate the digitizer from the main board. 8) Lastly use your spudger tool to pry the data ribbon open from the motherboard. Once the ribbon is removed the board will be free and you can replace the board. 9) The display is also ready to be replaced.
|
guide_overview
|
|
105,303 |
Garmin Fenix 3 HR Battery Replacement
|
Garmin Fenix 3 HR
|
Easy
|
[
"T5 Torx Screwdriver",
"Tweezers",
"Spudger",
"iFixit Opening Tool"
] | 1,800 | 1,800 |
This is a Garmin Fenix 3 HR Battery Replacement guide. Device: Garmin Fenix 3 HR. Difficulty: Easy. Tools needed: T5 Torx Screwdriver, Tweezers, Spudger, iFixit Opening Tool. Time required: 1800-1800 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Remove the five 7mm screws with H1.3 hex screwdriver. 2) Use a plastic opening tool to remove the face of the device to expose the inner components. There is one metal piece at the top of the face that is loose. This is the GPS antenna which will need to be removed as well. Be careful with the ribbon that connects the motherboard to the display. 3) Proceed to disconnect the ribbon from the motherboard using [product|IF145-020|tweezers]. 4) Using a T5 screwdriver, remove the two 5mm screws. The motherboard should now move freely. 5) Another ribbon is attached to the top of the motherboard. Disconnect this ribbon. 6) Disconnect wires connecting battery to motherboard. 7) The battery is glued to the motherboard and will need pried off using the nylon spudger. 8) Now attach the new battery with adhesive and reassemble.
|
guide_overview
|
|
74,115 |
Martian Victory Watch Face Replacement
|
Martian Victory
|
Moderate
|
[
"Spudger",
"1.5 mm Flathead Screwdriver",
"iFixit Opening Tool",
"Phillips #00 Screwdriver",
"Tweezers",
"Phillips #0 Screwdriver",
"Metal Probe"
] | 3,600 | 7,200 |
This is a Martian Victory Watch Face Replacement guide. Device: Martian Victory. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Spudger, 1.5 mm Flathead Screwdriver, iFixit Opening Tool, Phillips #00 Screwdriver, Tweezers, Phillips #0 Screwdriver, Metal Probe. Time required: 3600-7200 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Unscrew the four 3.4 mm flat head screws 2) Carefully lift the back plate off the watch. You will notice a lithium battery and rubber gasket attached to the back plate. 3) If not replacing lithium battery, skip down two steps. Using the plastic removal tool, pry the battery from the backing plate. The battery is simply attached with glue. 4) Desolder the battery connections from the motherboard. Learn how to solder components 5) Use PH00 screw driver to remove two 2.4mm Phillips head screws. 6) Use a spudger or [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to remove a white sticker that covers a Phillips head screw. 7) Use PH00 screwdriver to remove 5.2mm Phillips head screw 8) Use ESD safe tweezers to remove the gold ribbon cable. This will expose a second 5.2mm Phillips head screw that can be removed with a PH00 screwdriver. 9) Use a spudger to gently pry on the motherboard towards the top of the watch, being towards the 12 o'clock position to loosen the motherboard. You can now access the parts and pieces on the bottom of, and below the motherboard. 10) Locate the ribbon connection, and use remove the clips holding the strip on each side using needle tool. 11) With a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers], carefully remove the ribbon strip connection. 12) Remove the screw driver holding the LED screen and Speaker in place. 13) Insert a small flat screw driver under the speaker in order to remove it. 14) Using tweezers, remove the speaker and move off to the side. 15) Place a small flat head screwdriver under the LED screen, and carefully push it out of it's socket. 16) Remove final connection to accelerometer. The LED screen is now separated from the device. 17) Grab the motherboard with [product|IF145-020|tweezers] and remove from watch cavity. 18) Stabilize watch with the metal prove. Place tweezers around crown and pull outward, so that the crown can be removed. 19) Insert the spudger under plastic panel cover in order to access watch face. 20) Insert a spudger under the black watch face. Gently push up, so that it can be raised out of the watch. Use tweezers or pin tool in order to remove from watch.
|
guide_overview
|
|
27,598 |
Samsung Gear 2 Display Assembly Replacement
|
Samsung Gear 2
|
Moderate
|
[
"Spudger",
"T5 Torx Screwdriver",
"Tweezers"
] | 900 | 1,800 |
This is a Samsung Gear 2 Display Assembly Replacement guide. Device: Samsung Gear 2. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Spudger, T5 Torx Screwdriver, Tweezers. Time required: 900-1800 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Before disassembling your Gear, be sure it is powered off. To remove each strap, locate the metal latches on both sides of the back of the Gear. Press down on the metal latch while pulling the strap away from the Gear until it is completely off. 2) Remove the four 4.0 mm screws on the back of the Gear using a T5 Torx Screwdriver. 3) Firmly holding the Gear, insert the flat side of the spudger at an angle to pry the back casing off of the device. Move the spudger along the sides of the Gear to completely detach the back and front components. Pry the device open from the other side also if it does not fully disassemble from one side. 4) Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to grab and then gently lift up the metal plate of the safety belt. When removing the metal plate, be sure to remove them carefully as to not rip the orange tape that is attached to them. During reassembly, be sure to line up the pins of the metal plate in order to reattach correctly. 5) Once the safety belt is removed, use tweezers to take the motherboard out of the Gear 2. 6) Once the motherboard is out of the way, take your plastic spudger and apply gentle pressure to the back of the lcd. It should pop free at one corner allowing you to work your opening tool between the display and the frame. Carefully remove the screen from the frame as you apply slight pressure from the back of the screen. After separating the screen from the frame, thread the display flex cable back through the opening it is routed through. Remove screen. You should end up with the frame and the adhesive ring. (see photo) '''NOTE''' Be careful not to tear the black adhesive ring on the display. You will need the original adhesive ring to hold your new screen in place.
|
guide_overview
|
|
143,164 |
Samsung Galaxy Watch Active2 Screen Replacement
|
Samsung Galaxy Watch Active2
|
Moderate
|
[
"Tri-point Y00 Screwdriver",
"iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6)",
"Spudger",
"iFixit Opening Tool"
] | 2,100 | 3,300 |
This is a Samsung Galaxy Watch Active2 Screen Replacement guide. Device: Samsung Galaxy Watch Active2. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Tri-point Y00 Screwdriver, iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6), Spudger, iFixit Opening Tool. Time required: 2100-3300 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Turn off the Galaxy Watch Active2 by pushing and holding the bottom button for approximately 3 seconds. You should feel a short vibration. When the "Power off" symbol appears, tap the center of the screen to make it shut down. You should feel a longer vibration for confirmation. 2) Use a Tri-point Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 4 mm-long screws on the back of the watch. 3) Use an opening pick and place it between the plastic back cover and the metal housing near the buttons. Push the opening pick into the gap to separate the back cover from the housing. Don’t remove the back cover all the way yet. There is a cable connecting it to the motherboard. 4) Carefully lift the back cover to access the sensor array connector. Use a spudger to disconnect the sensor array from the motherboard. 5) Remove the back cover. 6) Use a spudger to disconnect the display assembly and the speaker. 7) Use a spudger to disconnect the barometric sensor, the buttons, and the microphone. 8) Place a spudger underneath the motherboard at the top right next to the display connector. Slightly twist and lever the spudger to loosen the core assembly. It might help to also check the comments below this and the next step if you’re having difficulties. 9) Grab the core assembly and carefully slide it out from under the cables. Remove the core assembly. 10) Place the edge of an opening tool under the speaker unit. Lever the opening tool down to separate the display from the frame. 11) Remove the frame from the display. Make sure to remove any remaining adhesive from the frame with isopropyl alcohol (>90%) before applying the adhesive or installing the new display.
|
guide_overview
|
|
32,299 |
Samsung Gear Live Back Replacement
|
Samsung Gear Live
|
Easy
|
[
"iFixit Opening Tool",
"Flathead 3/32\" or 2.5 mm Screwdriver",
"T5 Torx Screwdriver"
] | 60 | 60 |
This is a Samsung Gear Live Back Replacement guide. Device: Samsung Gear Live. Difficulty: Easy. Tools needed: iFixit Opening Tool, Flathead 3/32" or 2.5 mm Screwdriver, T5 Torx Screwdriver. Time required: 60-60 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Lay the watch face-down on a flat, stable surface. 2) Press the watchband down against the work surface. Press the tip of a flathead screwdriver against the edge of the spring-loaded holding pin. 3) With the spring-loaded pin pressed in, the watch band should release easily. Gently pull the band away from the body of the watch. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for the opposite side. 4) With the watch laying face-down, locate the four screws. They are located on the back of the watch, at the four corners. 5) Using a Torx-T5 screwdriver, remove each of the four 4mm screws and set them aside. 6) Gently work the plastic opening tool under the top edge of the watch’s back cover. 7) With the watch’s back cover pried loose, gently lift it away from the front half of the watch. 8) Lay both halves of the watch body assembly face down (with internal components facing up).
|
guide_overview
|
|
107,955 |
Polar V800 Battery Replacement
|
Polar V800
|
Difficult
|
[
"T5 Torx Screwdriver",
"Spudger",
"Soldering Iron"
] | 1,800 | 1,800 |
This is a Polar V800 Battery Replacement guide. Device: Polar V800. Difficulty: Difficult. Tools needed: T5 Torx Screwdriver, Spudger, Soldering Iron. Time required: 1800-1800 minutes. Repair steps: 1) In this guide, the wrist band of the Polar V800 is removed for a clear view of the back panel. If you find it helpful, you may want to remove the wrist strap. Please reference the guide for removal instructions if you wish to do so. Ensure your Polar V800 sports watch is powered off before continuing. Remove the eight, 7.4 millimeter-long screws on the back of the watch with a T5 head-type, torque screwdriver. 2) Gently separate the watch housing from the back panel. The watch should come apart easily after removing the screws. If you experience difficulties separating the housing and and back cover, use a spudger to gently pry apart the back panel and the button and screen protector housing. 3) The waterproofing seal is the red, elastic band that surrounds the display of the watch. Remove the waterproofing seal. During reassembly, align the red seal in the groove surrounding the glass screen on the main watch housing to ensure a watertight seal. 4) Though not necessary, following the first may make the motherboard easier to remove. Remove the nine, 4.0 millimeter-long screws with a T5 head-type torque screwdriver. 5) Once all of the screws have been removed, lift the motherboard to expose the battery beneath motherboard. A red wire and a black wire should run between the motherboard and the battery. 6) The battery is glued down to the back of the watch. It may take some force to detach the battery at the glue joint. Use a spudger to pry the battery from the back of the watch. If your battery is swollen, be very careful in removing the battery. If the packaging is ruptured, the battery will be unsafe to handle with bare hands. The contents of the battery are hazardous. 7) Gently pull the wires from their solder joints to disconnect them from the body of the watch. If the wires do not come off easily, you may need to desolder the connections. Visit for more help on soldering. To reconnect the wires to their solder joints, they must be soldered on. See the guide linked above for more guidance. 8) To remove the battery, desolder the black and red wires connecting the battery to the motherboard and remove the battery. See this guide on for additional help.
|
guide_overview
|
|
59,692 |
Nike+ Sportband Motherboard Replacement
|
NikePlus Sportband
|
Moderate
|
[
"Metal Spudger",
"Tweezers",
"Phillips #000 Screwdriver"
] | 600 | 600 |
This is a Nike+ Sportband Motherboard Replacement guide. Device: NikePlus Sportband. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Metal Spudger, Tweezers, Phillips #000 Screwdriver. Time required: 600-600 minutes. Repair steps: 1) To begin the disassembly of your NikePlus Sportband, first remove the device from the rubber wristband. 2) Finish the disassembly of your NikePlus Sportband by utilizing the metal spudger tool on the short edge to pry the external body pieces apart. 3) After the cover had been removed, use the metal spudger tool to remove the body of the device from the casing. 4) Use the metal [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to pry the screen casing from the body of the device. The screen casing is fastened to the body of the device by four clips located in each corner of the casing. 5) Flip the body of the device over so that the screen is now on the bottom. The display ribbon cable is soldered to the motherboard. We were able to peel up the ribbon cable with a pair of tweezers. Successfully resoldering this ribbon cable to the motherboard may prove difficult to the very small traces. 6) Flip the body of the device back over so that the screen is facing up. Using the tweezers, gently lift the screen from body of the device. 7) Remove the four highlighted screws from the motherboard using the Philips screwdriver. 8) Use the metal [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to lift the motherboard out of the device.
|
guide_overview
|
|
85,141 |
Asus ZenWatch 2 Battery Replacement
|
Asus ZenWatch 2
|
Easy
|
[
"T5 Torx Screwdriver",
"Spudger",
"Magnetic Project Mat"
] | 120 | 120 |
This is a Asus ZenWatch 2 Battery Replacement guide. Device: Asus ZenWatch 2. Difficulty: Easy. Tools needed: T5 Torx Screwdriver, Spudger, Magnetic Project Mat. Time required: 120-120 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Remove the four 3.5mm screws to detach the case using the T5 screwdriver. 2) Slide the spudger under the battery and lift to remove.
|
guide_overview
|
|
135,259 |
Huawei Watch 2 Opening Procedure
|
Huawei Watch 2
|
Moderate
|
[
"Tweezers",
"iFixit Opening Tool",
"T2 Torx Screwdriver"
] | 300 | 900 |
This is a Huawei Watch 2 Opening Procedure guide. Device: Huawei Watch 2. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Tweezers, iFixit Opening Tool, T2 Torx Screwdriver. Time required: 300-900 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Before starting repairs, take your watch off the charger and power it down. Feel free to attach or remove the watch band as needed to provide more control as you make repairs. 2) Remove the four Torx T2 screws (4.5 mm length). 3) Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to remove the four plastic covers sitting next to the watch band holders. 4) Insert an opening tool into the gap between the back cover and the watch case at the bottom edge of the back cover. Use the opening tool to pry up the back cover of the Huawei Watch 2. Do not remove the back cover assembly all the way yet—it's still connected to the mainboard. 5) Carefully fold the back cover assembly to the opposite side of the two watch crowns.
|
guide_overview
|
|
160,350 |
Google Pixel Watch Screen Replacement
|
Google Pixel Watch
|
Moderate
|
[
"iOpener",
"iFlex Opening Tool",
"Heat Gun",
"Isopropyl Alcohol (90% or Greater)",
"Tweezers",
"Spudger",
"T2 Torx Screwdriver"
] | 3,600 | 7,200 |
This is a Google Pixel Watch Screen Replacement guide. Device: Google Pixel Watch. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: iOpener, iFlex Opening Tool, Heat Gun, Isopropyl Alcohol (90% or Greater), Tweezers, Spudger, T2 Torx Screwdriver. Time required: 3600-7200 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Before starting repairs, turn off your watch and take it off the charger. Remove the watch band by pressing the band release button and sliding the band over the button while pulling it away from the watch. Repeat for the other watch band. 2) [link| an iOpener] and apply it to the screen for about two minutes to soften the adhesive securing the screen. A [link| dryer], , or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the watch—the screen and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage. 3) The thin seam between the frame and screen requires a thin metal tool—take your time and work carefully to avoid scraping or gouging the watch body or glass. Insert an [link|] into the thin gap between the screen and frame, left of the digital crown. 4) When slicing the screen adhesive, insert the iFlex no deeper than 3 mm to prevent damaging internal components. Slide the iFlex around the entire perimeter of the watch to slice all of the screen adhesive. 5) Remove the iFlex and reinsert it under the screen, to the right of the speaker grille. Twist the iFlex to pry the screen up. Don't try to fully remove the screen just yet, as it‘s still connected to the watch assembly by a delicate cable. 6) Be careful not to strain the screen assembly cable when you open the display. Swing the screen open to an upright position. During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your device and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power it back down completely before you continue working. 7) Throughout this repair, [product|IF145-491|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from. Use a Torx T2 screwdriver to remove the 2.1 mm-long screw securing the speaker bracket. 8) Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with sharp tools—it can leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire. Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to remove the speaker bracket. 9) Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the vibration motor‘s press connector. To re-attach [guide|25629|press connectors|stepid=70308|new_window=true] like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down in the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage. 10) Be careful with sharp tools around the battery. Use tweezers to peel up the yellow tape securing the vibration motor cable to the battery. 11) Use a Torx T2 screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the vibration motor: One 1.8 mm-long screw One 2.8 mm-long screw 12) Use tweezers to lift the grounding bracket out of its recess and remove it. 13) Remove the vibration motor. 14) Use a Torx T2 screwdriver to remove the two 3 mm-long screws securing the battery bracket. 15) Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to lift the grounding bracket out of its recess and remove it. 16) Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with sharp tools—it can leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire. Use tweezers to peel up the yellow tape from the edge of the battery, next to the speaker. 17) Slide the flat end of a spudger under the edge of the battery where the vibration motor was. Pry up the battery until you can grip it with your fingers. The battery is held in place by mild adhesive. If you're struggling to pry up the battery, apply a [link| iOpener] to the bottom of the watch for about 2 minutes to loosen the adhesive. Don't apply the iOpener directly to the battery. Don't try to remove the battery all the way yet, as it‘s still connected to the watch assembly by a delicate cable. 18) Avoid straining or tearing the battery cable when moving the battery. Carefully place the battery next to the watch to access the battery connector bracket. 19) Use a Torx T2 screwdriver to remove the two 1.5 mm-long screws securing the battery connector bracket. 20) Use tweezers to remove the battery connector bracket. 21) Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket. 22) Remove the battery. Never reuse a deformed or damaged battery—it's a fire hazard. Replace it with a new battery. 23) ***Note:*** The screen assembly cable is threaded underneath the test port cable. Avoid straining or tearing the test port cable in the following steps. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the screen assembly cable by carefully prying the connector straight up from its socket. 24) The screen assembly cable is secured by light adhesive. Slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the screen assembly cable to loosen its adhesive and detach it from the watch frame. 25) Carefully pull the screen assembly cable out from underneath the test port cable. Remove the screen assembly. During reassembly, apply new adhesive where it's necessary after cleaning the relevant areas with high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (>90%). After installing the screen, apply strong, steady pressure for several hours to help the adhesive form a good bond—a stack of heavy books works well.
|
guide_overview
|
|
147,920 |
Huawei Watch 3 Battery Replacement
|
Huawei Watch 3
|
Moderate
|
[
"T30 Torx Screwdriver Bit",
"Phillips PH000 Screwdriver",
"Jimmy",
"iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6)",
"Spudger",
"Tweezers"
] | 1,800 | 2,700 |
This is a Huawei Watch 3 Battery Replacement guide. Device: Huawei Watch 3. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: T30 Torx Screwdriver Bit, Phillips PH000 Screwdriver, Jimmy, iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6), Spudger, Tweezers. Time required: 1800-2700 minutes. Repair steps: 1) User your fingernail to pull the small metal pin on each wrist band towards the inside. This unlocks the wrist bands from the body of the watch. Remove the wrist bands. 2) Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the four 4 mm-long screws on the back of the Huawei Watch 3. 3) Locate the small notch at the top of the back cover. Use a Jimmy to pry open the back cover by twisting it. Using a sharp metal tool might cause cosmetic damage to the watch case. Covering the tool with a nitril glove can minimize the damage. Don’t remove the back cover just yet. It is still connected to the motherboard with a flex cable. 4) Insert the tip of an opening pick between the back cover and the case. Slide the opening pick around the back cover to loosen the gasket from the back cover. 5) There is a ribbon cable running from the back cover to the motherboard. Use an opening pick or your fingers to carefully lift the back cover open. Flip the back cover open away from the crown. You can prop up the back cover to minimize the stress on the ribbon cable. 6) Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.9 mm-long screw from the battery bracket. 7) User a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to lift the top of the battery bracket free from its screw socket. Unhook the opposite side of the bracket and remove it. 8) Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery connector. The battery connector is the smallest of the three connectors. 9) Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.9 mm-long screw from the sensor bracket. 10) User a pair of tweezers to move the top of the sensor bracket free from a small latch near the case by rotating in inwards. Unhook the opposite side of the bracket and remove it. 11) Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the sensor connector. Remove the back cover. 12) Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable. 13) Insert the tip of an opening pick between the battery and the plastic frame opposite to the cables. Use the opening pick to lift the battery up. The battery is held down by mild adhesive. 14) Grab the battery with your fingers and remove it. For reassembly you may need to apply some adhesive to the new battery if it does not come equipped with it.
|
guide_overview
|
|
97,605 |
iHealth Edge Band Replacement
|
iHealth Edge
|
Very easy
|
[] | 30 | 30 |
This is a iHealth Edge Band Replacement guide. Device: iHealth Edge. Difficulty: Very easy. Tools needed: No special tools. Time required: 30-30 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Pull the elastic band away from the device as shown. You will need to use one hand to support the device and pull the elastic band with the other at about a 45 degree angle. 2) Pull the elastic band away from the device, you should now have the device with no band as shown. 3) Place the elastic band into the channel in the side of the device shown in the picture. The band will pull into the channel and lock into place. 4) After pulling the band into place the guide is now complete. Your iHealth Edge should be ready for use.
|
guide_overview
|
|
138,369 |
How to disconnect the battery assembly of the Huawei Watch GT 2 (46 mm)
|
Huawei Watch GT 2 (46 mm)
|
Moderate
|
[
"Spudger",
"T2 Torx Screwdriver",
"Phillips #00 Screwdriver",
"Tweezers"
] | 600 | 1,200 |
This is a How to disconnect the battery assembly of the Huawei Watch GT 2 (46 mm) guide. Device: Huawei Watch GT 2 (46 mm). Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Spudger, T2 Torx Screwdriver, Phillips #00 Screwdriver, Tweezers. Time required: 600-1200 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Before starting repairs, take your watch off the charger and power it down. Remove the watch band. 2) Remove the four 3.7 mm-long Torx T2 screws. 3) Insert the edge of a spudger into the middle loudspeaker opening at the top edge of your watch. 4) The plastic clamps holding the back cover in place sit very tight and may require some force during the prying procedure. Use the spudger to pry up the back cover assembly of your Huawei watch GT 2. Don't try to remove the back cover assembly all the way yet, it's still connected to the motherboard. 5) Carefully swing the back cover assembly open to an upward position. 6) Remove the two 2.3 mm-long Phillips #00 screws. 7) Use a pair of tweezer to remove the metal shield covering the multi-purpose flex connector. 8) Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the multi-purpose flex connector. 9) Separate the back cover assembly from the watch case.
|
guide_overview
|
|
86,653 |
Fitbit Blaze Battery Replacement
|
Fitbit Blaze
|
Difficult
|
[
"Metal Spudger",
"T3 Torx Screwdriver",
"Phillips PH000 Screwdriver",
"iFixit Opening Tool"
] | 2,700 | 2,700 |
This is a Fitbit Blaze Battery Replacement guide. Device: Fitbit Blaze. Difficulty: Difficult. Tools needed: Metal Spudger, T3 Torx Screwdriver, Phillips PH000 Screwdriver, iFixit Opening Tool. Time required: 2700-2700 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Locate the front LCD screen on your device. Fitbit logo should appear in the bottom center of the screen. 2) Push the screen out through the back of the metal ring enclosure. Use a small amount of force on screen to prevent damage. Use other hand to catch screen. 3) Locate the metal pin behind the wristband located on the edge of metal ring. Insert the pointed end of the metal spudger into the pin hold and push it into the blue rectangle enclosure. Use a small amount of force to avoid damaging the pins. Remove wristband. 4) Place device screen face down and locate the four screws attaching the back cover. Use a T3 torx head or T3 torx screwdriver to remove the four screws. 5) Grab the back, lift and open like a book to expose the motherboard. Locate the ribbon connector on the left. Use a plastic spudger tool on the ribbon connected from the heart rate monitor to the motherboard. Insert and lift the plastic opening tool to release the ribbon. Only a small force when lifting the plastic connector is needed to avoid damage. 6) Separate the back and set aside, locate the three screws attaching the motherboard. Use a PH000 head or a PH000 screwdriver to remove the three screws. 7) Use a plastic spudger tool on the ribbons connected to the motherboard. Insert the tool under the ribbon and lift to release the connection. Only a small force when lifting the plastic connector is needed to avoid damage. 8) Lift and push the motherboard to the side to uncover the 167mAh battery. Use a plastic spudger tool to pry out the battery from its adhesive plastic underneath. Lift up and pull downward to remove battery. Switch to the top portion of the battery and push downward to pry out battery. 9) Flip the motherboard backwards and locate the metal pins from the battery soldered to the board. Desolder the connection to remove the battery, desolder the battery connector itself if desired as well. Follow this guide on how to solder and desolder connectors Excessive heat will damage the components, so do not apply the soldering iron to the component for long amounts of time.
|
guide_overview
|
|
108,225 |
Garmin Fenix 3 HR "self made charging"
|
Garmin Fenix 3 HR
|
Moderate
|
[
"Utility Knife"
] | 1,800 | 1,800 |
This is a Garmin Fenix 3 HR "self made charging" guide. Device: Garmin Fenix 3 HR. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Utility Knife. Time required: 1800-1800 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Insert wisdom here. 2) Insert wisdom here.
|
guide_overview
|
|
59,597 |
ASUS ZenWatch Vibration motor Replacement
|
ASUS ZenWatch
|
Moderate
|
[
"Phillips #000 Screwdriver",
"Heavy-Duty Spudger",
"Magnetic Project Mat",
"iFixit Opening Tool",
"T5 Torx Screwdriver",
"Tweezers",
"Soldering Iron"
] | 0 | 0 |
This is a ASUS ZenWatch Vibration motor Replacement guide. Device: ASUS ZenWatch. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Phillips #000 Screwdriver, Heavy-Duty Spudger, Magnetic Project Mat, iFixit Opening Tool, T5 Torx Screwdriver, Tweezers, Soldering Iron. Time required: 0-0 minutes. Repair steps: 1) On the strap there is a knob. Sliding this knob towards the opposite side of the strap releases the tension on the spring bar, allowing you to pull the strap out.. 2) Use the T5 Torx driver to remove the four screws on the case. Use the magnetic pad to keep all your parts easily contained! The case will pry easily off with just gentle hand pressure 3) Using the [product|IF145-020|tweezers], gently remove the fabric protecting the battery connection. Take care when removing the fabric. Too much force may damage the contact with the metal tweezers. Use the heavy duty spudger to gently push the contact towards the top of the case. 4) Gently pry the battery up with the plastic pry tools 5) With the metal [product|IF145-020|tweezers] gently remove the fabric covering the connection on bottom right Using the heavy duty plastic spudger pry up on the connection ribbon. There are two connection ports on the single ribbon. Do not use too much force as you may tear ribbon! 6) The protective plate is now ready to be safely removed. With the [product|IF145-013|heavy duty spudger] pry up on the metal plate, in a counter-clockwise pattern There are tiny notches on plate making it simple to pull up on each side. A small strip of adhesive is on back of plate as well. Remove loosened plate and set aside. 7) With the 000 Philips screwdriver remove the screw and plastic retainer clips 8) With heavy duty spudger lift up on final connection ribbon located on left corner. 9) With all the connections disconnected the motherboard can be gently pried up and out of the watch case. 10) With a flat metal spudger pry back the little metal clamps that hold the motor secure. Do not bend these too far as they can easily break off! 11) With the soldering iron, heat the two solder tabs on back of motor. Use metal [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to pull up and remove motor. A soldering iron gets hot! Take care not to burn yourself or place it on any other part of the board.
|
guide_overview
|
|
74,713 |
Fitbit Surge Screen Replacement
|
Fitbit Surge
|
Moderate
|
[
"Pro Tech Toolkit",
"Phillips PH000 Screwdriver",
"iFixit 6 Inch Metal Ruler",
"Metal Spudger",
"Spudger",
"iFixit Opening Tool",
"Curved Razor Blade"
] | 1,200 | 1,200 |
This is a Fitbit Surge Screen Replacement guide. Device: Fitbit Surge. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Pro Tech Toolkit, Phillips PH000 Screwdriver, iFixit 6 Inch Metal Ruler, Metal Spudger, Spudger, iFixit Opening Tool, Curved Razor Blade. Time required: 1200-1200 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Unscrew all four black 3 mm Phillips screws on the underside of the watch using a T5 screwdriver. 2) Use an X-Acto knife to cut the band above, on either side, and in between the 2 screws. '''Note''': Part of the band is hard plastic. '''Caution''': Once the band is cut it cannot be reattached. 3) Scrape away the glue beneath the hard shell portion of the band to reveal the GPS. 4) Use a PH000 screw head to undo the newly revealed silver 4 mm Phillips screws that were hidden beneath the glue. 5) Using a metal spudger, push down on the plastic gray square clamps on the underside of the device to dislodge the whole silver backing. Note: the buttons will also come off. 6) Use a thin tool to pry the the device apart by lodging it between the clock face and back side of the device. '''Note''': A spudger may not be thin enough to fit in the seam of the device. We used the 6 inch metal ruler from the Pro Tech Toolkit. 7) Remove the protective cover underneath the clock face, by unscrewing the three 2 mm Phillips screws using a PH000 screwdriver. Lift the protective cover to remove it and reveal the device's screen. 8) Remove the LCD screen from the clock face.
|
guide_overview
|
|
87,916 |
Microsoft Band 2 Buttons Replacement
|
Microsoft Band 2
|
Moderate
|
[
"Metal Spudger",
"Heat Gun",
"T3 Torx Screwdriver",
"Tweezers"
] | 1,800 | 1,800 |
This is a Microsoft Band 2 Buttons Replacement guide. Device: Microsoft Band 2. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Metal Spudger, Heat Gun, T3 Torx Screwdriver, Tweezers. Time required: 1800-1800 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Wear proper gloves when using a heatgun. Use a heatgun to melt the adhesive beneath the screen. Heat the metal around edges of the screen. Avoid heating the rubber watch band as it will quickly melt. Heating the LCD screen may damage it. Avoid this procedure unless you intend to replace the screen. 2) Use a and plastic to pry the screen away from the Band 2. 3) Use metal [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to gently detach the orange press-fit (or "pop") connector. 4) Use the T3 Torx Screwdriver to remove the two 2.7 mm screws 5) Lift the logic board and locate the two circular clips securing the buttons from inside the wall of the Band 2. Remove them by sliding the clips sideways. 6) Remove the buttons, being careful not to lose the springs.
|
guide_overview
|
|
97,445 |
iHealth Edge Motherboard Replacement
|
iHealth Edge
|
Difficult
|
[
"Hair Dryer",
"iFixit Opening Tool",
"Soldering Iron"
] | 180 | 180 |
This is a iHealth Edge Motherboard Replacement guide. Device: iHealth Edge. Difficulty: Difficult. Tools needed: Hair Dryer, iFixit Opening Tool, Soldering Iron. Time required: 180-180 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Lightly heat device with hair dryer for 15 seconds to soften adhesive. 2) After heating adhesive, firmly pry apart the two halves. 3) Remove polymer cover that is protecting the mother board, it should just come out when two halves are separated. 4) Use a pair of nylon spudgers to assist the removal of the motherboard. Pry up on two tabs and the mother board will pop out. 5) This shows the mother board out and exposed. 6) You must remove the solder from two wires from the motherboard that are connected to the battery.
|
guide_overview
|
|
161,214 |
Misfit Vapor Watch Strap Replacement
|
Misfit Vapor
|
Very easy
|
[] | 60 | 60 |
This is a Misfit Vapor Watch Strap Replacement guide. Device: Misfit Vapor. Difficulty: Very easy. Tools needed: No special tools. Time required: 60-60 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Using your fingers, press down on the rubber circles to unbuckle the strap from itself. Once you have removed two of the rubber circles from from a side you will be able to unbuckle the strap on that side.
|
guide_overview
|
|
86,311 |
Basis Peak Band Replacement
|
Basis Peak
|
Very easy
|
[
"Heavy-Duty Spudger"
] | 60 | 60 |
This is a Basis Peak Band Replacement guide. Device: Basis Peak. Difficulty: Very easy. Tools needed: Heavy-Duty Spudger. Time required: 60-60 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Flip the watch over to view the back panel and sensor. Arrange the watch so that the band clasp is away from you. Keep the watch in this position to help you follow the rest of the guide. 2) Release the spring latches on the underside of each band to remove the bands from the frame.
|
guide_overview
|
|
142,124 |
Samsung Watch Active Motherboard Replacement
|
Samsung Watch Active
|
Moderate
|
[
"Tri-point Y00 Screwdriver",
"iFixit Opening Tool",
"Spudger",
"iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6)",
"Phillips #00 Screwdriver"
] | 1,500 | 3,000 |
This is a Samsung Watch Active Motherboard Replacement guide. Device: Samsung Watch Active. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Tri-point Y00 Screwdriver, iFixit Opening Tool, Spudger, iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6), Phillips #00 Screwdriver. Time required: 1500-3000 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Turn off the Galaxy Watch Active by pushing and holding the bottom button for approximately 3 seconds. You should feel a short vibration. When the "Power off" symbol appears tap the center of the screen to make it shut down. You should feel a longer vibration for confirmation. 2) Use a Tri-point Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 4 mm-long screws on the back of the watch. 3) Use an opening tool and place it between the plastic back cover and the metal housing near the buttons. Push the tip of the opening tool into the gap to separate the back cover from the housing. Don’t remove the back cover all the way yet. There is a cable connecting it to the motherboard. 4) Carefully lift the back cover approximately 2 cm to access the sensor array connector near the two buttons. Use a spudger to disconnect the sensor array from the motherboard. 5) Remove the back cover. 6) Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display assembly, the microphone and pressure sensor array, and side button. 7) Use an opening pick to peel back the thin tape belonging to the microphone array. When re-assembling make sure this tape properly sticks to the motherboard by pressing it down with the flat end of a spudger. 8) Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 4.4 mm-long screw holding the motherboard in place. 9) Use an opening pick to loosen the motherboard from the core assembly. The plastic tab holding the motherboard in place is fragile, so don't lift the motherboard up until it has cleared the tab. 10) Slide the motherboard out from under the plastic tab to remove it.
|
guide_overview
|
|
37,849 |
Motorola Moto 360 O-Ring Replacement
|
Motorola Moto 360
|
Moderate
|
[
"Jimmy",
"iOpener Kit"
] | 300 | 300 |
This is a Motorola Moto 360 O-Ring Replacement guide. Device: Motorola Moto 360. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Jimmy, iOpener Kit. Time required: 300-300 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Set the watch face down on a flat surface. Place the heated [guide|11677|iOpener] on the face of the rear cover to loosen the adhesive underneath. 2) Follow the instructions here to remove the back cover without force by using some needles in the right places: Then continue with step 5. Or don't use needles and just continue with the next steps. 3) Gently slide the blue opening pick between the rear cover and the metal casing. The rear cover is extremely fragile. Be very delicate when using the opening pick. Work your way entirely around the rear cover. It may take several attempts of reheating the adhesive to get the rear cover loose enough to pull off. 4) Once the adhesive has been successfully loosened, gently pull the rear cover off. 5) To get to the O-Ring, use the Jimmy to gently pry off the rear housing. 6) Pinch the green rubber O-Ring and slide it off of the watch. The O-Ring is delicate and is easily severed. Use care around sharp objects.
|
guide_overview
|
|
50,124 |
LG G Watch R Motherboard Replacement
|
LG G Watch R
|
Easy
|
[
"iFixit Opening Tool",
"Phillips #00 Screwdriver",
"T5 Torx Screwdriver"
] | 300 | 300 |
This is a LG G Watch R Motherboard Replacement guide. Device: LG G Watch R. Difficulty: Easy. Tools needed: iFixit Opening Tool, Phillips #00 Screwdriver, T5 Torx Screwdriver. Time required: 300-300 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Power off your watch before disassembling it. Place the watch upside down on a hard surface so that its back case is facing upright. Use a T4 Torx Star screwdriver to remove the four 4.0 mm Torx screws from the corners of the back case. 2) Use a plastic opening tool to pry open the back case from both sides of the watch. 3) Remove the back case. 4) With a plastic opening tool, disconnect the four connectors on the top of the motherboard. 5) Remove three 3.0 mm Phillips screws on the edges of the motherboard with a Phillips #000 screwdriver. 6) Grasp the edges of the motherboard and slide it slightly towards the right to remove it from its case.
|
guide_overview
|
|
115,456 |
VTech Kidizoom Smartwatch DX2 Battery Replacement
|
VTech Kidizoom Smartwatch DX2
|
Difficult
|
[
"Soldering Iron",
"Tweezers",
"Phillips #00 Screwdriver",
"Lead-Free Solder"
] | 900 | 1,800 |
This is a VTech Kidizoom Smartwatch DX2 Battery Replacement guide. Device: VTech Kidizoom Smartwatch DX2. Difficulty: Difficult. Tools needed: Soldering Iron, Tweezers, Phillips #00 Screwdriver, Lead-Free Solder. Time required: 900-1800 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Begin by flipping the watch over with its back facing upwards. 2) Next, use the Phillips #00 screwdriver to unscrew the four 6.0 mm screws located in each corner of the watch to remove the backplate. 3) Gently lift the backplate up to remove it. 4) After removing the backplate, lift the master switch up from the circuit board. 5) Using a Phillips #00 screwdriver, remove the 0.6 mm screw. 6) Carefully remove the speaker from the case without disconnecting it from the motherboard. 7) Using the [product|IF145-020|tweezers], carefully lift the bar holding the connection to the screen. Remove the motherboard from the device. 8) Carefully pry the battery off of the circuit board using the plastic opening tool. 9) De-solder the wires connecting the battery to the circuit board. Remove the battery.
|
guide_overview
|
|
102,956 |
Sony Smart Watch SW2 Display Assembly Replacement
|
Sony Smart Watch SW2
|
Easy
|
[
"6-in-1 Screwdriver",
"iFixit Opening Tool"
] | 300 | 300 |
This is a Sony Smart Watch SW2 Display Assembly Replacement guide. Device: Sony Smart Watch SW2. Difficulty: Easy. Tools needed: 6-in-1 Screwdriver, iFixit Opening Tool. Time required: 300-300 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Detach the smart watch from the band by pushing on the back of the watch housing. The power button may fall out once the smart watch is detached. Set aside the power button and watch band as they are no longer needed for further disassembly. 2) Use a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the LCD screen from the watch housing. 3) Use a plastic opening tool or spudger to lift the screen assembly press-fit connector free. 4) Set aside the detached LCD screen to access the battery.
|
guide_overview
|
|
50,489 |
Samsung Gear S Microphone Replacement
|
Samsung Gear S
|
Moderate
|
[
"iFixit Opening Tool",
"Metal Spudger",
"Spudger"
] | 1,500 | 1,500 |
This is a Samsung Gear S Microphone Replacement guide. Device: Samsung Gear S. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: iFixit Opening Tool, Metal Spudger, Spudger. Time required: 1500-1500 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Remove the wrist strap by peeling back the rubber starting from one corner of the watch face. Continue peeling the rubber away from the watch face until the strap is completely off. 2) Starting from an edge, wedge a metal spudger in between the screen and the chrome trim ring and pry, lifting the screen outwards. Some force is needed due to adhesive seal. 3) Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry upwards on the plastic motherboard assembly. 4) Locate the ribbon assembly attaching the display to the motherboard. 5) Use a plastic opening tool to detach the glass screen/ LED Display ribbon connector from the motherboard. 6) Now the watch should be in three separate pieces. 7) Locate the microphone on the lower right corner of the plastic motherboard assembly . 8) Use the plastic opening tool to lift up the microphone ribbon connector. 9) Use the spudger to lift up the white microphone circuit board.
|
guide_overview
|
|
170,444 |
Apple Watch Series 9 (45mm) Battery Replacement
|
Apple Watch Series 9
|
Moderate
|
[
"iOpener",
"Hair Dryer",
"Heat Gun",
"Cut-Resistant ESD Gloves",
"iFlex Opening Tool",
"iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6)",
"Tri-point Y000 Screwdriver",
"Tweezers",
"Spudger",
"Isopropyl Alcohol (90% or Greater)",
"Cotton Swabs"
] | 2,700 | 3,600 |
This is a Apple Watch Series 9 (45mm) Battery Replacement guide. Device: Apple Watch Series 9. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: iOpener, Hair Dryer, Heat Gun, Cut-Resistant ESD Gloves, iFlex Opening Tool, iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6), Tri-point Y000 Screwdriver, Tweezers, Spudger, Isopropyl Alcohol (90% or Greater), Cotton Swabs. Time required: 2700-3600 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Before starting this repair, remove your watch from the charger and ***let its battery drain completely***—the watch should shut down from low battery. A charged lithium‑ion battery may catch fire if damaged. Letting the battery drain completely also prevents accidentally turning your watch back on when gripping it during repair. 2) Throughout the rest of your repair: Attach and remove the watch bands as needed to get a better grip or stabilize your watch. To remove a band, firmly press in the small, oval button on the underside of the watch and slide the band out of its groove. Consider placing your watch on something soft like a clean cloth to help stabilize it and prevent damage. 3) If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your watch. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage. Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker. Alternatively, [link| a coin to a pick|new_window=true] 3 mm from the tip. 4) Strong adhesive secures the perimeter of the screen to the frame. Heating the screen softens the adhesive, making it easier to separate. [guide|25705|Heat an iOpener|new_window=true] and lay it on the screen for two minutes to soften its adhesive. Alternatively, you can use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true]—but be careful as extreme heat can damage the screen and/or battery. 5) The gap between the screen and frame is extremely small. You'll need a thin tool such as an [product|IF145-336|iFlex|new_window=true] to create an initial gap. Don't grip the iFlex or similar metal tools by the edges—they're very sharp. Consider wearing [product|IF145-481|gloves|new_window=true] to protect your hands. Insert the iFlex at a downward angle between the bottom edge of the screen and frame. 6) Prying up the screen may take multiple attempts. If you're having trouble, apply more heat and try again. With one hand, push down firmly on the watch's frame to secure it in place. With your free hand, hold the iFlex and push the edges up to make it more rigid. The iFlex should be slightly "***U***" shaped. Pry up the screen enough for the iFlex to lay flat on its own. The iFlex doesn't need to be inserted far, as it can easily damage the [link| cables near the bottom right corner of the watch|new_window=true]. Leave the iFlex inserted under the screen. 7) ***Do not insert your opening pick more than 3 mm under the screen*** when separating the adhesive, as you risk damaging your watches internals. Keep the iFlex flat to maintain a gap between the screen and frame while inserting an opening pick. Insert an opening pick between the screen and iFlex. Remove the iFlex. 8) Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive securing it. 9) Slide the opening pick around the bottom left corner and up the left edge to separate the adhesive. 10) Slide the opening pick around the top left corner and along the top edge to separate the adhesive. 11) Slide the opening pick around the top right corner and ***stop at the top of the side button***. Don't slide your pick past the side button—you risk damage to the [link| cables|new_window=true]. 12) Insert the long edge of an opening pick between the left edge of the screen and frame. Twist the pick to lift the screen and separate any remaining adhesive. 13) Pull the right edge of the screen over the digital crown. If the screen feels stuck, go back around it with an opening pick to separate any adhesive. Swing up the left edge of the screen so it's upright. The screen should be to the right of the digital crown. During reassembly: This is a good point to plug in your watch and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power it back down completely before you continue working. Follow [guide|157344|this guide|new_window=true] to apply new screen adhesive and reseal your watch. 14) Heating the battery will soften the strong adhesive securing it, making the battery easier to remove. [guide|25705|Heat an iOpener|new_window=true] and lay it on the battery for two minutes to soften the adhesive. Alternatively, you can use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true]—but be careful as extreme heat can damage the battery. 15) Be careful not to puncture or bend the battery—it can leak dangerous chemicals and catch fire. Insert an opening pick between the bottom edge of the battery and frame. Pry up the battery with the opening pick until it starts to separate from the frame. This requires time and constant pressure. If you're having trouble, apply more heat and try again. Slide the pick farther under the battery and lift until all the adhesive is separated. 16) Be careful not to strain or tear the battery cable during the rest of your repair. Gently lift the battery out of its recess and set it next to your watch so you can access the battery cable. 17) Use a tri‑point Y000 screwdriver to remove the 1.1 mm‑long screw securing the battery connector bracket. 18) Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to remove the battery connector bracket. 19) Insert the point of a spudger under the short end of the battery connector (opposite the cable) and pry it up. 20) Remove the battery. To install a new battery: Use a spudger and tweezers to remove all the old adhesive from the battery recess. If your replacement battery doesn't have adhesive pre-installed, put strips of [product|IF317-072-6|thin, double-sided tape|new_window=true] on the logic board (***not*** directly on the battery) where the old adhesive was. Do ***not*** remove any liners yet. Reconnect the battery cable [guide|25629|press connector|stepid=70308|new_window=true] to its socket on the motherboard. Put the battery connector bracket into place and install its screw. Make sure the metal arm goes over the battery press connector. Remove any liners from the battery adhesive or double-sided tape. Firmly press the battery into place to secure it with the adhesive.
|
guide_overview
|
|
127,065 |
Samsung Watch Active Battery Replacement
|
Samsung Watch Active
|
Easy
|
[
"Spudger",
"Tri-point Y0 Screwdriver",
"1 x Opening Picks",
"Tweezers"
] | 0 | 0 |
This is a Samsung Watch Active Battery Replacement guide. Device: Samsung Watch Active. Difficulty: Easy. Tools needed: Spudger, Tri-point Y0 Screwdriver, 1 x Opening Picks, Tweezers. Time required: 0-0 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Assemble all your tools 2) Turn watch faced down to reveal the screws. Remove the straps by pulling on pin switches to release. 3) remove the 4 screws 4) Use the tin metal pry tool to gently penetrate the back. 5) Use the metal pry tool as support for the opening blue pick 6) Gently Lift the back to reveal a connector, use a tweezer to remove it then you will have access to the back 7) Separate back fully from rest of the body 8) use tweezer to remove all 3 connectors and remove the screw 9) Use Spudger to lift panel housing from body 10) Remove housing from watch body 11) Lift off motherboard and use tweezer to lift up bettery connector from the plastic housing 12) use spudger to lift battey out of plastic housing 13) Separate battery from the plastic body, then install replacement battery
|
guide_overview
|
|
167,460 |
Garmin Vívoactive 4 Motherboard Replacement
|
Garmin Vívoactive 4
|
Moderate
|
[
"Spudger",
"Heat Gun",
"Jimmy",
"Phillips #00 Screwdriver",
"Halberd Spudger"
] | 2,400 | 3,600 |
This is a Garmin Vívoactive 4 Motherboard Replacement guide. Device: Garmin Vívoactive 4. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Spudger, Heat Gun, Jimmy, Phillips #00 Screwdriver, Halberd Spudger. Time required: 2400-3600 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Flip the watch on its back to reveal the watch band connection pins. 2) Wedge your fingernail or the tip of a spudger underneath the watch band's small metal pin. Push on the pin to release the strap from it's hinge. Pull the strap away from the watch to disconnect it. The strap will not pull away if the pin isn't fully pushed in. 3) With both straps removed, a new replacement watch band may be inserted. 4) Use a heatgun to loosen the adhesive beneath the screen, it should take a 5-10 minutes for adhesive to loosen. Handle the watch with care to avoid burning yourself after it has been heated. Review the [guide|151116|How to Use a Heat Gun to Soften Adhesive|new_window=true] guide. 5) Wedge a thin opening tool or your iFixit Jimmy in between the seam where the screen and the watch’s housing connect. Pry the screen off the device. There is a cable underneath the screen that needs to be disconnected - be careful not to rip it. Work quickly so the adhesive doesn’t cool too much. 6) Carefully disconnect both cables from the motherboard by placing the tip of your spudger under the edge of the connector, and prying the connector straight up from its socket. 7) Remove the screen. 8) Carefully peel off the ribbon tape that is holding down the motherboard. 9) Place the tip of your spudger under the edge of the connector, and pry the connector straight up from its socket to disconnect the battery from the motherboard. Do this carefully to avoid ripping the cable. 10) Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the 3.2 mm screw on the motherboard. Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the 4.8 mm screw on the motherboard. 11) Pull the battery cable up to dislodge the motherboard. Gently remove the motherboard from the socket. The motherboard may get caught under the housing due to the clips on the edge.
|
guide_overview
|
|
30,969 |
LG G Watch Motherboard Replacement
|
LG G Watch
|
Moderate
|
[
"Spudger",
"T5 Torx Screwdriver",
"Tweezers",
"iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6)",
"Phillips #000 Screwdriver"
] | 600 | 900 |
This is a LG G Watch Motherboard Replacement guide. Device: LG G Watch. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Spudger, T5 Torx Screwdriver, Tweezers, iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6), Phillips #000 Screwdriver. Time required: 600-900 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Spring bars attach the two halves of the wristband to the watch body. The spring bar has a shoulder on either end. Be prepared to apply some pressure with your fingers to perform the following action. First, slide the wristband down on the spring bar to expose the shoulder of the spring bar. Grasp the exposed shoulder with the [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to perform the next step. 2) This is a challenging step. Do it carefully to prevent the spring bar from flying out of the wristband. Use the tweezer to depress the spring bar so that it collapses by a few millimeters and pops out of the hole that was holding it in place. Now carefully pull the other end of the spring bar to detach the wristband from the watch face. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the other wristband. 3) Use the T5 Torx screwdriver to unscrew the four silver 2mm x 3mm T5 screws that hold the back cover in place. 4) Slide the opening pick between the rear case and the rest of the device to separate the two halves. Gently pull the two halves apart. 5) Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to remove the gasket that lies embedded in a groove that runs around the perimeter of the front half. 6) Use the spudger to gently lift up and disconnect the display connector. Now use the spudger to disconnect the digitizer connector. 7) Use a Phillips #000 screwdriver to remove the two black PHO 2.5mm x 3mm screws. Use the spudger to gently remove the motherboard.
|
guide_overview
|
|
41,083 |
Apple Watch Adhesive Replacement
|
Apple Watch
|
Moderate
|
[
"Tweezers",
"iFixit Opening Tool"
] | 3,600 | 7,200 |
This is a Apple Watch Adhesive Replacement guide. Device: Apple Watch. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Tweezers, iFixit Opening Tool. Time required: 3600-7200 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Use a plastic opening tool to scrape adhesive off the back of the screen. 2) You may be able to peel up the adhesive with [product|IF145-020|tweezers]. Once you have all of the pieces of adhesive removed, you may want to use an alcohol soaked q-tip to clean any residue off the back of the screen. 3) Use tweezers to peel the outer ring off of one of the adhesive strip pads. Be sure to get both the double-sided adhesive and the brown backing paper. If you're having trouble navigating the double-sided adhesive, check out [link| video]. Be very careful not to fold, bend, or stretch the adhesive tape, as this will make it too thick to seal the screen without a ridge between the screen and the case. 4) Lay the backed adhesive tape down on the Force Touch sensor, around the edge of the case where the screen rests. Start in a corner with the tape as close to the corner wall as possible. Press on the brown backing paper with a plastic opening tool to secure the adhesive around the entire perimeter. 5) Use a plastic opening tool to reconnect the display data and digitizer cable connectors. Be careful not to touch any of the contacts directly, as your finger oils may impede connectivity. 6) To reinstall the metal bracket, line up the single tab with the slot in the top of the lower half, and slide the bracket down. Snap the upper bracket in place. 7) Line the battery connector up with its mate on the cable inside the watch body. Use tweezers to press the two connectors together. 8) If your replacement battery came with pre-installed adhesive, peel off the protective tab now, exposing the adhesive. Rotate the battery down into its slot, and press it into position. Press the battery down against the S1 to re-adhere it in place. Now is the best time to test powering on your watch—if it doesn't turn on, double check all three connectors and try again. 9) Use tweezers to peel off the adhesive backing strip. Peel the backing strip up halfway, then snip it with scissors so you can peel the rest off without it snagging on the display. 10) Move the screen back to the right, folding the display data and digitizer cables neatly. Center the screen over the case and press it down firmly onto the adhesive. Alternatively, you can use [link| vice clamps] around the perimeter of your device to set the new adhesive.
|
guide_overview
|
|
81,118 |
Fitbit Alta Wristband Replacement
|
Fitbit Alta
|
Easy
|
[] | 300 | 300 |
This is a Fitbit Alta Wristband Replacement guide. Device: Fitbit Alta. Difficulty: Easy. Tools needed: No special tools. Time required: 300-300 minutes. Repair steps: 1) To release a latch, press down on the flat metal button holding the band to the Fitbit Alta. Pull up on the latch to release the band from the body. 2) Slide the band up to release it from the Fitbit Alta tracker. Then, repeat on the other side to remove the band. 3) Turn over the Fitbit Alta so the bands are facing upward. Press the latches inward and remove each band by lifting upward.
|
guide_overview
|
|
27,890 |
SleepTracker Elite Battery Replacement
|
SleepTracker Elite
|
Easy
|
[
"Phillips #0 Screwdriver",
"Spudger"
] | 300 | 480 |
This is a SleepTracker Elite Battery Replacement guide. Device: SleepTracker Elite. Difficulty: Easy. Tools needed: Phillips #0 Screwdriver, Spudger. Time required: 300-480 minutes. Repair steps: 1) You will need: CR 2032 Battery Philips #0 screwdriver Something to pop the battery out, like a thin spudger, or a #2 slot screwdriver. 2) Remove these four screws. They're all the same size. 3) Lift off the case back. Underneath, you'll see a sheet of plastic film. It should be possible to remove the battery without removing the film, if you're careful, but I didn't want to risk bending or tearing the plastic. If you do take the plastic off, beware of maneuvering it over the three springs in the upper left, and the small prong that sticks out over the battery. You'll need to be sure to arrange the plastic carefully over these obstructions when re-assembling. 4) Insert spudger or flat screwdriver in the notch indicated by the arrow, and lever out the battery. The new battery should insert the same way the old one came out, and snap into place.
|
guide_overview
|
|
154,880 |
Fitbit Alta HR Battery Replacement
|
FitBit Alta HR
|
Moderate
|
[
"Spudger",
"Hex 0.7 bit",
"Metal Spudger",
"Soldering Iron",
"Lead-Free Solder",
"Helping Hands"
] | 3,600 | 7,200 |
This is a Fitbit Alta HR Battery Replacement guide. Device: FitBit Alta HR. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Spudger, Hex 0.7 bit, Metal Spudger, Soldering Iron, Lead-Free Solder, Helping Hands. Time required: 3600-7200 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Push in the clip and slide off the strap from each side. 2) Use a spudger to remove the front cover. 3) Use a spudger to lift the display. 4) Use a spudger to disconnect the cable that connects the heart rate monitor to the motherboard. 5) Use a hex 0.7 screwdriver to remove the screws from the motherboard. 6) Use a spudger to lift the motherboard. 7) Use a spudger to lift the battery. When the battery is lifted, the connected components (display, motherboard, battery) will come out. 8) Use a soldering iron to desolder the two battery contacts from the motherboard. 9) Ensure positive and negative wires are in the correct positions. There are + and – signs on the motherboard. Red is positive. Black is negative. Use a soldering iron and lead-free solder to solder the new battery to the motherboard.
|
guide_overview
|
|
84,988 |
Huawei Watch Jewel Strap Replacement
|
Huawei Watch Jewel
|
Very easy
|
[
"64 Bit Driver Kit"
] | 480 | 600 |
This is a Huawei Watch Jewel Strap Replacement guide. Device: Huawei Watch Jewel. Difficulty: Very easy. Tools needed: 64 Bit Driver Kit. Time required: 480-600 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Begin by laying the watch on a flat, smooth surface. This will prevent the watch screen from suffering damage. Obtain a Flex Extension with a Size 1.0 mm flat-head. In the case of not having said tool, for this model of watch one can use the hands to replace the strap. 2) Locate the two springs on the back of your watch. The watch comes with two of these springs on each side of the back-face. These are used to release the straps from the body of the watch. 3) Use the Flex Extension to push the spring to the right. This will release the strap from the watch head. 4) Carefully pull the strap away from the watch. 5) Repeat step 3, this time using the other strap.
|
guide_overview
|
|
171,019 |
Garmin Forerunner 945 Screen Replacement
|
Garmin Forerunner 945
|
Moderate
|
[
"Heat Gun",
"Hair Dryer",
"Razor Blade",
"Tweezers",
"B7000 Adhesive",
"Alcohol wipes"
] | 2,700 | 2,700 |
This is a Garmin Forerunner 945 Screen Replacement guide. Device: Garmin Forerunner 945. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Heat Gun, Hair Dryer, Razor Blade, Tweezers, B7000 Adhesive, Alcohol wipes. Time required: 2700-2700 minutes. Repair steps: 1) You can find replacement screens on eBay and amazon. I paid $40 plus tax. If you want to skip all these instructions, Garmin offered to replace mine for $160...I kindly declined. 2) I used a hairdryer on max heat. Went around all the edges of the screen for about 2 minutes. I was careful to avoid the bands since they are rubber. 3) Take your time here. I would wiggle and pry slowly until I caught a ledge. Then slowly pulled up while working the razor around. 4) Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] here and be careful to not poke any other components. 5) The picture shows the glue after it hardened and I had already taken it out. If it feels really stuck, apply a but more heat. Once you get a good portion out you can use that as a handle and slowly lift the rest out. 6) Depending on if your replacement came with this black piece (mine did not), you may want to use this on your new screen. I used tweezers to gently peel it off and stick on the new screen. Just make sure you see exactly where it is placed before removing because the ribbon cable connectors need to align properly. 7) This was the longest step for me. The NFC connector (black) is really small and hard to get on the dock. Use good lighting and patience and a plastic tool. Some guides say to apply glue first but it took me a while to get this part on. Im glad I waited till after to apply glue 8) Picture here shows cable disconnected but connect it first. While holding the screen in one hand, apply B7000 glue all around the ledge. Wear gloves to prevent it from getting on your hands. Apply more glue than you think you need. Then firmly press the screen down in place. Remove excess glue from the outside with an alcohol wipe. 9) B7000 says 2 hours minimum and 24 hours for full cure. And now your done!
|
guide_overview
|
|
52,247 |
Garmin Vivoactive Side Button Replacement
|
Garmin Vivoactive
|
Difficult
|
[
"Precision Tweezers Set",
"Magnetic Project Mat",
"iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6)",
"iOpener",
"Phillips #00 Screwdriver",
"iFixit Opening Tool",
"Spudger",
"T5 Torx Screwdriver",
"T6 Torx Screwdriver"
] | 1,200 | 2,400 |
This is a Garmin Vivoactive Side Button Replacement guide. Device: Garmin Vivoactive. Difficulty: Difficult. Tools needed: Precision Tweezers Set, Magnetic Project Mat, iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6), iOpener, Phillips #00 Screwdriver, iFixit Opening Tool, Spudger, T5 Torx Screwdriver, T6 Torx Screwdriver. Time required: 1200-2400 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Hold the the metal screwdriver, with a T5 Torx bit, in your dominant hand. Hold the rubber screwdriver, with a Hex T6 Torx bit, in your other hand. While holding the rubber screwdriver in place, simultaneously unscrew the pin (counterclockwise) with the metal screwdriver in your dominant hand. 2) Once the 1mm screw is removed, reinsert the metal screwdriver in that same hole. Gently push the strap's pin out. It will begin to protrude from the other end. Use your fingers to grab the exposed pin and slide it free. The strap should now be disconnected from the device. 3) Place a heated iOpener over the display to loosen the adhesive. After about a minute, the iOpener may be removed. For more in depth instructions on using the iOpener, refer to the . 4) Place the blue plastic opening tool in-between the screen and plastic casing of the watch and slowly pry up one side of the screen. 5) Once the first side has come free, wedge the blue pick in between the screen and watch unit on that side. Complete one pass around the perimeter of the screen to break the adhesive bond on all four sides. Insert it a minimal distance to avoid damaging internal components. 6) Use the blue plastic opening tool to pry up the side of the glass. Raise it to a point where your fingernail can fit in the gap. Do the same on the opposite side of the device until you have a good grip of the screen. 7) Obtain a careful grip of the screen from two of its sides. Slowly lift the screen off of the case. Separate it just enough so as not to damage the connection to the motherboard. 8) Detach the orange tab that connects the screen to the motherboard with a gentle uplift using a plastic opening tool. Upon completing this step, the screen should be free from the rest of the device. 9) Follow previous guides until you've exposed the battery as shown. Begin by removing the battery connector tab. Be sure not to use a metal implement or your fingers to remove this tab. Doing so may cause personal harm or damage to the electrical components. 10) Use a plastic opening pick to gently pry out the battery as shown. The battery is Lithium Polymer, follow safe handling procedures and DO NOT deform it upon removal. 11) With the battery loose from the case, rotate it to expose the attached tab Gently pry up the attached tab with a fingernail. Keep the vibrator, circled in red, as you may need to solder it to the new battery upon re-installation later. 12) Remove the four 2.4 mm screws with a PH00 Phillips head screwdriver. Make an effort not to damage any nearby components of the motherboard with the screwdriver. 13) Use the spudger to pry up the board from the case. Insert the spudger a minimum distance beneath the board as there are components below. Wiggle the exposed side of the board from each end until it comes free. Use proper safety when removing and handling the board. 14) Remove the GPS antenna by sliding it away from the board. Keep track of the antenna and add it to the new board upon replacement. 15) Orient the crescent shaped retaining clip so the open section faces the bottom of the device. Remove the retaining clip by pulling up away from the device with the precision [product|IF145-020|tweezers]. Be careful, the tweezers are quite sharp! 16) After the retaining clip is removed, the spring and button will pop out. With these very small components free from your device, take care not to lose them. The spring is slightly compressed, so the button may pop out once the clip is removed.
|
guide_overview
|
|
87,648 |
Pebble Time Battery Replacement
|
Pebble Time
|
Moderate
|
[
"Spudger",
"Opening Tool",
"Phillips #000 Screwdriver",
"150mAh P11G7T-01-S01 Replacement Battery"
] | 900 | 900 |
This is a Pebble Time Battery Replacement guide. Device: Pebble Time. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Spudger, Opening Tool, Phillips #000 Screwdriver, 150mAh P11G7T-01-S01 Replacement Battery. Time required: 900-900 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Lay the watch flat on your workstation. 2) Use the spudger to carefully pull apart the screen cover from the case. Replace the spudger with a plastic opening tool to hold the cover open. 3) Use the spudger tool to carefully loosen the rest of the cover. 4) Carefully, pull apart the cover with the plastic opening tool. 5) Insert spudger into the side of the screen shown in the picture. 6) Use the spudger to pry the screen up. 7) Once screen is lifted, insert plastic opening tool between the screen connector and circuit board. Disconnect the screen from the circuit board. 8) Keep the watch flat on your workstation. 9) Locate the three screws on the circuit board. Remove using the Phillips #000 Screwdriver. 10) Carefully disconnect the connector wire on the bottom left edge of the circuit board using a plastic opener tool. Move apart the connector to expose the fourth screw. 11) Remove the final screw from the circuit board with a Phillips #000 Screwdriver. 12) Turn the watch to the side and use the plastic opening tool to lift up the circuit board. Remove the circuit board from the case. 13) After removing the circuit board, the battery is located in the middle of the case. 14) Locate the battery connector on the left side of the case. Carefully disconnect the wire using a spudger. 15) After disconnecting the battery use the plastic opening tool to lift the battery off of the case. The battery might be glued to the case. 16) Insert the new battery into the same position from which the old battery was removed. Ensure the battery is firmly seated in the cavity. 17) Reconnect the battery connector to the main board using the spudger or your fingers. 18) Carefully place the circuit board back into the watch case, aligning it with the screw holes and Reinsert all four screws to secure the circuit board 19) Reconnect the screen connector to the circuit board. Ensure it is properly seated before continuing. 20) Power on your Pebble Time to verify that the new battery is working and the watch functions properly. If the watch does not power on, connect it to the charger for a few minutes before trying again.
|
guide_overview
|
|
145,950 |
Samsung Galaxy Watch4 Classic Motherboard Replacement
|
Samsung Galaxy Watch 4 Classic
|
Moderate
|
[
"iFixit Opening Tool",
"Tri-point Y00 Screwdriver",
"Spudger",
"Phillips #00 Screwdriver"
] | 600 | 1,200 |
This is a Samsung Galaxy Watch4 Classic Motherboard Replacement guide. Device: Samsung Galaxy Watch 4 Classic. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: iFixit Opening Tool, Tri-point Y00 Screwdriver, Spudger, Phillips #00 Screwdriver. Time required: 600-1200 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Before starting repairs, take your watch off the charger and power it down. Remove the watch band. 2) Use a Tri-point Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 4.0 mm-long screws securing the back cover. 3) Insert an opening tool into the seam between the back cover and the metal housing. Twist the opening tool to create a gap. Don't try to remove the back cover all the way yet. The sensor flex cable is still connected to the motherboard. 4) Lay the watch face down. Carefully swing open the back cover by folding it to the opposite site of the created gap. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the sensor flex cable from the motherboard. 5) Remove the back cover. Make sure the rubber gasket is undamaged. If damaged, replace it with a new one during reassembly to maintain proper water resistance. 6) Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the hall sensor flex cable. 7) Use a spudger to disconnect the display flex cable. 8) Use a spudger to disconnect the crown button flex cable. 9) Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 4.4 mm-long screw securing the motherboard. 10) Use your fingers to lift the motherboard out from the watch assembly towards the bottom of the watch. During reassembly, make sure none of the flex cables become trapped underneath the motherbaord.
|
guide_overview
|
|
100,623 |
Fossil Q Marshal Gen 2 Battery Replacement
|
Fossil Q Marshal Gen 2
|
Easy
|
[
"Tweezers",
"Spudger"
] | 1,200 | 1,200 |
This is a Fossil Q Marshal Gen 2 Battery Replacement guide. Device: Fossil Q Marshal Gen 2. Difficulty: Easy. Tools needed: Tweezers, Spudger. Time required: 1200-1200 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Squeeze retaining pins together to release chain from watch body. This can be done by hand or with [product|IF145-020|tweezers]. Remove chain from opposing side of watch body. 2) Use tweezers to grip the notches on the back cover, then unscrew the back cover (counter-clockwise) from the watch housing. There is an actual tool made to remove this back cover, using the right tool may save you from scratching the back of watch with tweezers. The backcover tool can be purchased online, a local jeweler may also be willing to remove it for you. 3) Utilize tweezers or a spudger or your fingers to pull the black wire connector from the motherboard. Utilize a spudger to pull the orange connector off of the motherboard. 4) Utilize tweezers to pull the white battery connector from the motherboard. 5) The internal electronics can now be pulled out of the watch as one unit leaving the screen remaining in the watch housing. Taking the flat end of the spudger, pry it up. 6) The battery is secured to the back of the motherboard utilizing a sticky pad. Gently separate the battery from the board while making sure not to put too much stress on the board. This is best done at the location shown. 7) Remove battery from plastic housing. Slip wires through large slot in plastic housing to completely remove.
|
guide_overview
|
|
141,513 |
Forerunner 620 Battery and/or Screen Replacement
|
Garmin Forerunner 620
|
Moderate
|
[
"B7000 Adhesive",
"Heat Gun",
"Suction Handle",
"Soldering Iron"
] | 1,800 | 3,600 |
This is a Forerunner 620 Battery and/or Screen Replacement guide. Device: Garmin Forerunner 620. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: B7000 Adhesive, Heat Gun, Suction Handle, Soldering Iron. Time required: 1800-3600 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Carefully remove the display of the watch by thoroughly heating the display and gently prying with the help of a suction cup. 2) Remove the screws which secure the main board in place. 3) If the connector for the battery breaks, you can solder the connections directly to the motherboard. If the connector is still intact, you can simply clip the new one into place. 4) If the LCD is broken, you can replace it by removing the two flat cables which connect it to the main board. The touch screen cable has a lock with a small white lever which should be lifted gently to remove the cable. 5) You can now glue the display back in place using B-7000 adhesive.
|
guide_overview
|
|
166,725 |
Apple Watch Ultra 2 Sensor Assembly Replacement
|
Apple Watch Ultra 2
|
Moderate
|
[
"iOpener",
"P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver Retina MacBook Pro and Air",
"iFlex Opening Tool",
"iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6)",
"Spudger",
"Tweezers",
"Safety Glasses",
"ESD Gloves",
"Heat Gun"
] | 1,800 | 3,600 |
This is a Apple Watch Ultra 2 Sensor Assembly Replacement guide. Device: Apple Watch Ultra 2. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: iOpener, P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver Retina MacBook Pro and Air, iFlex Opening Tool, iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6), Spudger, Tweezers, Safety Glasses, ESD Gloves, Heat Gun. Time required: 1800-3600 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Drain your watch battery below 25% before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged. Take your watch off the charger and power it down. If your touchscreen is broken and you can't power off the watch, [guide|166721|use this alternate method to power it down|new_window=true]. 2) Because the gap between the screen assembly and frame is so small, a thin metal tool is needed to pry the screen up. ***Read the following warnings before you start disassembly:*** ***Protect your fingers*** by keeping them completely clear of the front end of your tool. You can protect your free hand with a heavy glove, such as a leather shop glove or gardening glove. Be careful ***not to apply too much pressure,*** as this might cause the iFlex to slip and cut you, or damage the watch. ***Wear [product|IF145-125-3|eye protection.|new_window=true]*** The glass may break, sending pieces flying. Attach or remove the watch bands as needed to provide more control as you make repairs. 3) Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove the four 2.2 mm‑long screws securing the sensor assembly. 4) [guide|25705|Heat an iOpener|new_window=true] and apply it to the sensor assembly for at least two minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath. You can also [guide|157348|use a hair dryer|new_window=true], [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], or hot plate, but be careful not to overheat the watch—the screen and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage. 5) Insert an iFlex in the seam between the watch frame and the top edge of the sensor assembly to create a gap. Carefully twist the iFlex to widen the gap. Don't apply too much force, or you'll cause the sensor assembly to pop off and tear the sensor assembly cables. 6) Insert an opening pick into the gap you created. Do not insert the opening pick deeper than 3 mm to avoid tearing the sensor assembly cables. Remove the iFlex. 7) Slide the opening pick around the top right corner of the sensor assembly and along the right edge to slice its adhesive. 8) Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner and along the bottom edge to slice the rear assembly adhesive. 9) Slide the opening around the bottom left corner and along the left edge to slice the remaining adhesive. 10) ***In the following steps, the band release buttons and springs may fall out. Be careful during the disassembly, as they are very easy to lose.*** The band release buttons are equipped with a tiny spring on each end. The springs are mandatory for the buttons to function properly. During reassembly, make sure each band release button has its two springs, and the buttons are repositioned in their recesses. If a band release button falls out and the springs aren't on the button, they may have gotten stuck in the watch during disassembly. Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to remove them from the watch and place them upright into their recess on the button for reassembly. 11) The sensor assembly is connected to the watch body with two cables. One of the cables is extremely short and its connector will automatically disconnect when lifting the sensor assembly. To reconnect the [link| press connector|new_window=true] during reassembly, line up the sensor assembly to the frame and squeeze gently. Carefully lift the top edge of the sensor assembly with your opening pick until you can get a good grip with your fingers. Don't try to remove the sensor assembly all the way yet. It's still connected to the watch body. 12) Be careful not to strain the sensor assembly cable when you lift the assembly up. Lift the sensor assembly and carefully pull it towards the bottom edge of the watch. Swing the sensor assembly open to an upward position. 13) The band release button near the sensor assembly cable is equipped with [link| tiny spring on each end]. Be careful not to lose the button or its springs. Use a spudger to pry and disconnect the sensor assembly cable from its socket. 14) Remove the sensor assembly.
|
guide_overview
|
|
100,635 |
Nixon Mission Android Wear Motherboard Replacement
|
Nixon Mission Android Wear
|
Moderate
|
[
"Phillips #00 Screwdriver",
"Spudger"
] | 1,200 | 1,200 |
This is a Nixon Mission Android Wear Motherboard Replacement guide. Device: Nixon Mission Android Wear. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Phillips #00 Screwdriver, Spudger. Time required: 1200-1200 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Unscrew 4 4.5mm Phillips head screws from the back of the device. 2) Remove back. 3) Unclip straps holding motherboard to screen using a spudger. 4) Unscrew 2 3.0mm Phillips head screws holding motherboard in place. The other screw is hidden under the copper band on opposite side. 5) Remove the "core" of the device from case. 6) Separate motherboard from screen and then clean or replace motherboard.
|
guide_overview
|
|
160,130 |
Motorola Moto 360 3rd Gen Watch Band Replacement
|
Motorola Moto 360 3rd Gen
|
Very easy
|
[] | 180 | 180 |
This is a Motorola Moto 360 3rd Gen Watch Band Replacement guide. Device: Motorola Moto 360 3rd Gen. Difficulty: Very easy. Tools needed: No special tools. Time required: 180-180 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Flip the watch so that the bottom is facing toward you. 2) Using your finger, press down on the small pin ball until the pin is decompressed. Slide the pin out of place. Pull the pin out of the opposite side and remove the watchband. 3) Repeat the previous step to remove the other side of the watchband.
|
guide_overview
|
|
50,811 |
Samsung Gear 2 Neo Motherboard Replacement
|
Samsung Gear 2 Neo
|
Easy
|
[
"iFixit Opening Tool",
"T5 Torx Screwdriver",
"Tweezers"
] | 300 | 300 |
This is a Samsung Gear 2 Neo Motherboard Replacement guide. Device: Samsung Gear 2 Neo. Difficulty: Easy. Tools needed: iFixit Opening Tool, T5 Torx Screwdriver, Tweezers. Time required: 300-300 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Remove the wristband by sliding the metal pins located on both sides of the wrist band, and pulling the wristband off. 2) Use a T5 Torx Screwdriver to remove the 4 (0.4 mm) screws located on the back of the watch. 3) Slide the opening tool in between the two halves of the case and slide along the edge of the watch while gently prying the back cover away from the face of the watch. 4) Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to peel the battery ribbon cable off of the back cover. Avoid damaging the gold terminals on the ribbon cable. When reassembling, make sure that the yellow strip snaps back on to the black pin. The pin is located, and marked on the picture. Pull up on the tab that says, “Pull”, the battery will lift straight out. 5) Using the plastic opening tool, pull up on the flex connector. It will come off the motherboard, but will stay attached to the cover like a hinge. 6) It is recommended to use antistatic wrist wrap whenever removing the motherboard. Place the plastic opening tool underneath the motherboard at this location. Gently pry the motherboard away from the front cover. It should pop off and be free from the cover. Attached to the motherboard is the infrared LED Light. To replace the IR LED, you may need to replace the entire motherboard.
|
guide_overview
|
|
166,565 |
Apple Watch Series 9 (41mm) Battery Replacement
|
Apple Watch Series 9
|
Moderate
|
[
"iOpener",
"Hair Dryer",
"Heat Gun",
"Cut-Resistant ESD Gloves",
"iFlex Opening Tool",
"iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6)",
"Tweezers",
"Spudger",
"Isopropyl Alcohol (90% or Greater)",
"Cotton Swabs"
] | 2,700 | 3,600 |
This is a Apple Watch Series 9 (41mm) Battery Replacement guide. Device: Apple Watch Series 9. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: iOpener, Hair Dryer, Heat Gun, Cut-Resistant ESD Gloves, iFlex Opening Tool, iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6), Tweezers, Spudger, Isopropyl Alcohol (90% or Greater), Cotton Swabs. Time required: 2700-3600 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Before starting this repair, remove your watch from the charger and ***let its battery drain completely***—the watch should shut down from low battery. A charged lithium‑ion battery may catch fire if damaged. Letting the battery drain completely also prevents accidentally turning your watch back on when gripping it during repair. 2) Throughout the rest of your repair: Attach and remove the watch bands as needed to get a better grip or stabilize your watch. To remove a band, firmly press in the small, oval button on the underside of the watch and slide the band out of its groove. Consider placing your watch on something soft like a clean cloth to help stabilize it and prevent damage. 3) If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your watch. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage. Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker. Alternatively, [link| a coin to a pick|new_window=true] 3 mm from the tip. 4) Strong adhesive secures the perimeter of the screen to the frame. Heating the screen softens the adhesive, making it easier to separate. [guide|25705|Heat an iOpener|new_window=true] and lay it on the screen for two minutes to soften its adhesive. Alternatively, you can use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true]—but be careful as extreme heat can damage the screen and/or battery. 5) The gap between the screen and frame is extremely small. You'll need a thin tool such as an [product|IF145-336|iFlex|new_window=true] to create an initial gap. Don't grip the iFlex or similar metal tools by the edges—they're very sharp. Consider wearing [product|IF145-481|gloves|new_window=true] to protect your hands. Insert the iFlex at a downward angle between the bottom edge of the screen and frame. 6) Prying up the screen may take multiple attempts. If you're having trouble, apply more heat and try again. With one hand, push down firmly on the watch's frame to secure it in place. With your free hand, hold the iFlex and push the edges up to make it more rigid. The iFlex should be slightly "***U***" shaped. Pry up the screen enough for the iFlex to lay flat on its own. The iFlex doesn't need to be inserted far, as it can easily damage the [link| cables near the bottom right corner of the watch|new_window=true]. Leave the iFlex inserted under the screen. 7) ***Do not insert your opening pick more than 3 mm under the screen*** when separating the adhesive, as you risk damaging your watches internals. Keep the iFlex flat to maintain a gap between the screen and frame while inserting an opening pick. Insert an opening pick between the screen and iFlex. Remove the iFlex. 8) Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive securing it. 9) Slide the opening pick around the bottom left corner and up the left edge to separate the adhesive. 10) Slide the opening pick around the top left corner and along the top edge to separate the adhesive. 11) Slide the opening pick around the top right corner and ***stop at the top of the side button***. Don't slide your pick past the side button—you risk damage to the [link| cables|new_window=true]. 12) Insert the long edge of an opening pick between the left edge of the screen and frame. Twist the pick to lift the screen and separate any remaining adhesive. 13) Pull the right edge of the screen over the digital crown. If the screen feels stuck, go back around it with an opening pick to separate any adhesive. Swing up the left edge of the screen so it's upright. The screen should be to the right of the digital crown. During reassembly: This is a good point to plug in your watch and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power it back down completely before you continue working. Follow [guide|157344|this guide|new_window=true] to apply new screen adhesive and reseal your watch. 14) Heating the battery will soften the strong adhesive securing it, making the battery easier to remove. [guide|25705|Heat an iOpener|new_window=true] and lay it on the battery for two minutes to soften the adhesive. Alternatively, you can use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true]—but be careful as extreme heat can damage the battery. 15) Insert an opening pick between the bottom edge of the battery and frame. Pry up the battery with the opening pick until it starts to separate from the frame. This requires time and constant pressure. If you're having trouble, apply more heat and try again. Slide the pick farther under the battery and lift until all the adhesive is separated. 16) Be careful not to strain or tear the battery cable during the rest of your repair. Lift and rotate the battery so its edge with the cable rests on the bottom edge of the watch. During the remaining steps, keep the battery propped up against the bottom edge while you work. 17) Even though the Series 9 battery is encased in metal, be careful with sharp tools—a punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire. Use one arm of [product|IF145-020-5|angled tweezers] to gently lift the tape from the top right corner of the battery. 18) Use tweezers to remove the tape from the left edge of the battery. 19) Light adhesive secures the battery cable to the battery. Slide an opening pick under the battery cable to separate the adhesive. 20) Use the point of a spudger to lift the small, hinged locking flap on the battery [guide|25629|ZIF connector|stepid=64969|new_window=true]. 21) Use tweezers to pull the battery cable straight out of its socket. 22) Remove the battery. To install a new battery: Use tweezers and a spudger to remove all the old adhesive from the battery recess. If your replacement battery doesn't have adhesive pre-installed, put strips of [product|IF317-072|thin, double-sided tape|new_window=true] on the logic board (***not*** directly on the battery) where the old adhesive was. Insert the battery cable into its connector on the battery and lower the locking flap. Remove any liners from the battery adhesive or double-sided tape. Position the battery so the side with the cable connector is on the left edge of the watch. Firmly press the battery into place to secure it with the adhesive.
|
guide_overview
|
|
85,136 |
Fitbit Blaze Display Frame Replacement
|
Fitbit Blaze
|
Easy
|
[
"Metal Spudger"
] | 900 | 900 |
This is a Fitbit Blaze Display Frame Replacement guide. Device: Fitbit Blaze. Difficulty: Easy. Tools needed: Metal Spudger. Time required: 900-900 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Locate the front LCD screen on your device. Fitbit logo should appear in the bottom center of the screen. 2) Push the screen out through the back of the metal ring enclosure. Use a small amount of force on screen to prevent damage. Use other hand to catch screen. 3) Locate the metal pin behind the wristband located on the edge of metal ring. Insert the pointed end of the metal spudger into the pin hold and push it into the blue rectangle enclosure. Use a small amount of force to avoid damaging the pins. Remove wristband. 4) Locate the pin behind the second wristband located on the edge of metal ring. Insert the pointed end of the metal spudger into the pin hold and push it into opposite direction. Use a small amount of force to avoid damaging the pins. Remove wristband.
|
guide_overview
|
|
156,184 |
Core Assembly Removal
|
TicWatch Pro 3 GPS
|
Moderate
|
[
"T3 Torx Screwdriver",
"iOpener",
"Spudger",
"Isopropyl Alcohol (90% or Greater)",
"iFixit Adhesive Remover",
"Microfiber Cleaning Cloths",
"Heat Gun",
"Phillips #00 Screwdriver"
] | 1,200 | 2,100 |
This is a Core Assembly Removal guide. Device: TicWatch Pro 3 GPS. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: T3 Torx Screwdriver, iOpener, Spudger, Isopropyl Alcohol (90% or Greater), iFixit Adhesive Remover, Microfiber Cleaning Cloths, Heat Gun, Phillips #00 Screwdriver. Time required: 1200-2100 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Before starting repairs, take your watch off the charger and power it down. Remove the watch band. 2) Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the four 4.1 mm-long screws securing the back cover. 3) Apply a [link| iOpener] to the rear side of the watch for 5 minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath. A hair dryer, [link| gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device. 4) Insert the flat end of a spudger into the microphone opening at the top edge of the back cover. Pry upwards to loosen the back cover assembly. This may require some force. Don't try to remove the back cover assembly all the way yet. It's still connected to the daughterboard. Swing the back cover assembly open by 45 degrees to gain access to the sensor assembly cable. 5) Use a spudger to disconnect the sensor assembly cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket. To re-attach like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage. 6) Remove the back cover assembly. 7) Use a spudger to disconnect the microphone cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket. 8) Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 4.1 mm-long screws securing the core assembly. 9) Insert the point of a spudger between the right edge of the core assembly and the watch frame. Pry upwards to loosen the core assembly. Don't try to remove the core assembly all the way yet. It's still connected to the screen. 10) Carefully swing open the core assembly like the front cover of a book. Avoid straining or tearing the display cables at the bottom of the core assembly. 11) Use a spudger to disconnect the screen and the digitizer cables by prying the connectors straight up from their sockets. 12) Remove the core assembly.
|
guide_overview
|
|
50,344 |
BT008 Fitness tracker disassembly
|
TAPcheck Heart Rate Monitor
|
Moderate
|
[
"Essential Electronics Toolkit"
] | 0 | 0 |
This is a BT008 Fitness tracker disassembly guide. Device: TAPcheck Heart Rate Monitor. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Essential Electronics Toolkit. Time required: 0-0 minutes. Repair steps: 1) The device itself. 2) Removing soft strap. The device is pretty smart. It turns off those green puls measuring LED`s so it`s tricky to take a picture of those glowing. 3) Remove 4 screws in corners from the back. Remove the cover. Thin silicone washer is visible now. The buttons look waterproof. 4) Remove one more screw. Now 100mAh is visible. Also we can see some modules under the LCD panel. Will get there later. SURPRISE! the MCU is barried under a blob of epoxy( USB connector has only teo wires out for charging. And a reset button. Definitely not waterproof. Same as USB port cap. Why putting so much effort on that buttons and seal if anything else is not protected?! 5) Double sided tape holds the battery. Separate plastic frame for LED`s is holded by two latches which are holded by a plastic flake. Rather complex. 6) With frame removed. The flexible PCB with LED`s is also mounted on a double sided tape. While removing try to rip this corner with much copper on it. Those traces are signed, so cute. Vibromotor is glued firmly. 7) Plastic frame is holded by two pins. Now remove 4 screws holding the panel. Two modules under the panels. Bluetooth 4 on the left. Unknown module on the right. Scoped photo of the right one. LCD panel works fine after reassembling.
|
guide_overview
|
|
133,641 |
Screen Removal
|
Apple Watch Series 4
|
Moderate
|
[
"iOpener",
"iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6)",
"iFixit Opening Tool",
"Tweezers",
"Curved Razor Blade",
"Tri-point Y000 Screwdriver",
"Spudger",
"ESD Safe Blunt Nose Tweezers"
] | 3,600 | 7,200 |
This is a Screen Removal guide. Device: Apple Watch Series 4. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: iOpener, iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6), iFixit Opening Tool, Tweezers, Curved Razor Blade, Tri-point Y000 Screwdriver, Spudger, ESD Safe Blunt Nose Tweezers. Time required: 3600-7200 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Before starting repairs, take your watch off the charger and power it down. If your touchscreen is broken and prevents powering off the watch, . 2) Because the gap between the screen and watch body is so thin, a sharp blade is needed to separate the two. '''Read the following warnings carefully before proceeding.''' '''Protect your fingers''' by keeping them completely clear of the knife. If in doubt, protect your free hand with a heavy glove, such as a leather shop glove or gardening glove. Be careful '''not to apply too much pressure,''' as this might cause the knife to slip and cut you, or damage the watch. '''Wear ''' The knife or glass may break, sending pieces flying. Feel free to attach or remove the watch band as needed to provide more control as you make repairs. 3) (or use a hair dryer or heat gun) and heat the face of the watch to loosen the display adhesive. Leave the iOpener on the watch for at least two minutes to fully heat the screen and soften the adhesive holding it to the case. You may need to reheat the iOpener and repeat this procedure several times until the display adhesive gets loose enough. 4) Place the edge of a curved blade into the thin gap between the display and the outer case. Start at the short side of the display, closest to the digital crown. Press firmly ''straight down'' into the gap. Once inserted, tilt the blade to pry the display open slightly. Do not insert the knife more than 1/16th of an inch (~2 mm) to avoid damaging the Force Touch sensor. 5) Once you've opened a small gap with the curved blade, remove the blade and insert the thinner edge of an opening tool into the gap. Push the opening tool into the gap, using your thumb as a pivot to lift the display open a bit farther. Don't try to fully open or detach the display yet. 6) It's likely that the Force Touch sensor will stick to the display frame instead to the watch's body. In this case, insert an opening pick under the display and carefully separate the Force Touch gasket from the display. To preserve the Force Touch gasket, pry carefully under the edge of the display. If the Force Touch gasket splits when lifting the display, or if you separate the gasket layers, you'll also need to replace the Force Touch gasket itself. Slide the pick around the display to separate the adhesive between the Force Touch gasket and the display. Don't insert the opening pick deeper than 1/16th of an inch (~2 mm) to avoid damaging other components. 7) To avoid straining the display cables, don't open the display all the way yet. Open the display at max. to an 45° angle, and use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to peel off the adhesive between the display and the Force Touch gasket. Thread the adhesive around and behind the display cables to get it off completely. Since the adhesive needs to be replaced anyway, you can cut it if that makes removal easier for you. Make sure to return to this point during the reassembly of your watch and then continue with the [guide|134081|Resealing Procedure|new_window=true]. 8) Carefully fold the screen to the back until you get enough space to pry out the battery. Avoid tensioning the display cables when folding the screen to the back. Insert an opening pick between the battery and the Taptic Engine. A regular opening pick works fine with the 44mm version of the Apple Watch Series 4. However if you own the 40mm version and don't have enough space you can . 9) Slide the opening pick along the edge of the battery to loosen the adhesive. The adhesive which holds the battery in place is soft. However, if you're struggling to pry out the battery you can place a on the rear side of the watch to loosen the adhesive. Apply the iOpener for at least two minutes. Use constant, steady pressure to slowly pry the battery up, separating it from the adhesive securing it to the system board. Mind the display cables and especially the Force Touch cable which covers the battery in one corner so you don't damage them when levering the battery out. Make sure you don't puncture or deform the battery, as it can catch fire and/or explode if damaged. Don't try to remove the battery all the way yet. It is still connected to the watch assembly. 10) Carefully lift the battery and bring it in a 75° angle. Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to peel the black sticker off the metal plate which covers the battery connector. 11) Remove the Y000 screw (1.2 mm length). 12) Use a pair of tweezers to remove the metal plate which covers the battery connector. 13) Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery flex cable. 14) Remove the battery. Be sure to remove the protective liner to expose the adhesive on your new battery before you set it in place. Do not reinstall a damaged or deformed battery, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. If you are reusing your old battery during reassembly, you can reuse the existing adhesive to secure the battery during reassembly. Alternatively, remove the old adhesive with high isopropyl alcohol and a lint free cloth and use a small piece of double-sided tape such as , or a dab of liquid adhesive such as . 15) The black foil which covers the display connectors is very fragile and likely to rip. To keep the tape intact while peeling it off, it's necessary to use high isopropyl alcohol or an iOpener. Apply a little bit of high isopropyl alcohol (>99%) to a Q-tip and apply it to the black adhesive foil. Let it penetrate the adhesive for about two minutes. Alternatively you can place an on top of the screen to loosen the adhesive. Apply the iOpener at least for two minutes. 16) Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to carefully peel off the tape covering the three display cable connectors. 17) Use one arm of a pair of tweezers to carfully open the three ZIF connectors on the rear side of the screen. 18) Use a pair of blunt nose tweezers to peel up the sides of the black foil which adheres the cable to the rear side of the screen. 19) Lift the body of the watch up and carefully slide a spudger underneath the display flex cable to loosen remaining adhesive. 20) Carefully pull the display flex cables out of their ZIF connectors. Make sure to hold on to the display flex cable during this procedure and avoid pulling only on the body of the watch. Otherwise the display cable might rip. Separate the watch assembly and the screen.
|
guide_overview
|
|
156,192 |
Opening Procedure
|
TicWatch E3
|
Moderate
|
[
"iOpener",
"iFixit Adhesive Remover",
"Isopropyl Alcohol (90% or Greater)",
"Microfiber Cleaning Cloths",
"Heat Gun",
"1 x Opening Picks",
"Spudger"
] | 900 | 1,800 |
This is a Opening Procedure guide. Device: TicWatch E3. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: iOpener, iFixit Adhesive Remover, Isopropyl Alcohol (90% or Greater), Microfiber Cleaning Cloths, Heat Gun, 1 x Opening Picks, Spudger. Time required: 900-1800 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Before starting repairs, take your watch off the charger and power it down. Remove the watch band. 2) Apply a [link| iOpener] to the rear side of the watch for 5 minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath. A hair dryer, [link| gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device. 3) Insert an opening pick into the recess between the watch frame and the top edge of the back cover. Push the opening pick to create a gap between the back cover and the watch frame. 4) Twist the opening pick to widen the gap between the back cover assembly and the watch frame. Pry upward to loosen the back cover assembly. Don't try to remove the back cover assembly all the way yet. It's still connected to the motherboard. 5) Carefully lift up the bottom edge of the back cover assembly to make sure it isn't adhered to the watch frame anymore. Avoid straining or tearing the sensor or battery cables. 6) Grab the back cover assembly and carefully bring it into an upright position next to the watch housing. 7) Use a spudger to disconnect the battery cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket. To re-attach like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage. 8) Use a spudger to disconnect the sensor cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket. 9) Remove the back cover assembly.
|
guide_overview
|
|
56,678 |
ASUS ZenWatch Battery Replacement
|
ASUS ZenWatch
|
Easy
|
[
"Magnetic Project Mat",
"Tweezers",
"Heavy-Duty Spudger",
"iFixit Opening Tool",
"T5 Torx Screwdriver"
] | 600 | 600 |
This is a ASUS ZenWatch Battery Replacement guide. Device: ASUS ZenWatch. Difficulty: Easy. Tools needed: Magnetic Project Mat, Tweezers, Heavy-Duty Spudger, iFixit Opening Tool, T5 Torx Screwdriver. Time required: 600-600 minutes. Repair steps: 1) On the strap there is a knob. Sliding this knob towards the opposite side of the strap releases the tension on the spring bar, allowing you to pull the strap out.. 2) Use the T5 Torx driver to remove the four screws on the case. Use the magnetic pad to keep all your parts easily contained! The case will pry easily off with just gentle hand pressure 3) Using the [product|IF145-020|tweezers], gently remove the fabric protecting the battery connection. Take care when removing the fabric. Too much force may damage the contact with the metal tweezers. Use the heavy duty spudger to gently push the contact towards the top of the case. 4) Gently pry the battery up with the plastic pry tools
|
guide_overview
|
|
148,358 |
Garmin fenix 6X Sapphire Watch Band Replacement
|
Garmin fenix 6X Sapphire
|
Very easy
|
[
"Spudger",
"Jimmy"
] | 180 | 300 |
This is a Garmin fenix 6X Sapphire Watch Band Replacement guide. Device: Garmin fenix 6X Sapphire. Difficulty: Very easy. Tools needed: Spudger, Jimmy. Time required: 180-300 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Flip the watch facedown. 2) Grip one side of the watch band and pull the tab on the band away from the watch face. Pull the band away from the watch face while continuing to press the tab. Repeat for the band on the other side.
|
guide_overview
|
|
113,920 |
Garmin Fenix 3 Battery Replacement
|
Garmin Fenix 3
|
Easy
|
[
"Tweezers",
"T6 Torx Screwdriver",
"Spudger",
"T5 Torx Screwdriver"
] | 300 | 300 |
This is a Garmin Fenix 3 Battery Replacement guide. Device: Garmin Fenix 3. Difficulty: Easy. Tools needed: Tweezers, T6 Torx Screwdriver, Spudger, T5 Torx Screwdriver. Time required: 300-300 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Use a T6 screwdriver to remove the five 1.7 mm screws from the watch face. 2) Carefully lift the face off the watch base. Do not yank the face. A ribbon connector connects the face and the motherboard, and yanking could result in damage to the motherboard or ribbon. 3) Use a spudger to lift up and free the screen ribbon cable's press-fit connector from the motherboard. 4) Set the watch face aside. 5) Locate the antenna, which is located on the motherboard. 6) Carefully remove the antenna, and set it aside. 7) Use a T5 screwdriver to remove the two silver 1.4 mm screws from the motherboard. To avoid losing or dropping the screws once they are loose, use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to extract them. 8) Lift the watch and turn it over one hand. The motherboard should fall out easily. When reinserting your motherboard, slide it in instead of pressing it. The motherboard must go beneath a lip at the base of the watch body. 9) Using the spludger, separate the battery from the motherboard, which are both held together with a mild adhesive. Note that the battery connector lifts upward away from the circuit board by simply lifting the wires up should pop the connector. When re-seating the new battery connector make sure the connector is seated home fully or it will not work and the the watch will show "100%" when on the charger but will not start.
|
guide_overview
|
|
32,305 |
Samsung Gear Live Heart Rate Monitor Replacement
|
Samsung Gear Live
|
Moderate
|
[
"Flathead 3/32\" or 2.5 mm Screwdriver",
"iFixit Opening Tool",
"T5 Torx Screwdriver"
] | 720 | 720 |
This is a Samsung Gear Live Heart Rate Monitor Replacement guide. Device: Samsung Gear Live. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Flathead 3/32" or 2.5 mm Screwdriver, iFixit Opening Tool, T5 Torx Screwdriver. Time required: 720-720 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Lay the watch face-down on a flat, stable surface. 2) Press the watchband down against the work surface. Press the tip of a flathead screwdriver against the edge of the spring-loaded holding pin. 3) With the spring-loaded pin pressed in, the watch band should release easily. Gently pull the band away from the body of the watch. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for the opposite side. 4) With the watch laying face-down, locate the four screws. They are located on the back of the watch, at the four corners. 5) Using a Torx-T5 screwdriver, remove each of the four 4mm screws and set them aside. 6) Gently work the plastic opening tool under the top edge of the watch’s back cover. 7) With the watch’s back cover pried loose, gently lift it away from the front half of the watch. 8) Lay both halves of the watch body assembly face down (with internal components facing up). 9) Locate the ribbon cable connector near the edge of the watch's case. Using the plastic opening tool, gently pry the connector from the motherboard 10) Using the plastic opening tool, gently pry away the red spacers. Set the spacers aside. 11) Insert the end of the plastic opening tool under the motherboard. Gently pry up the motherboard. 12) Set the motherboard on a flat, stable surface. Using the plastic opening tool, gently pry the heart rate sensor cable from the motherboard. 13) Once the cable is disconnected, run the plastic opening tool under the heart rate sensor from all sides, gently prying up as you go along.
|
guide_overview
|
|
87,059 |
TomTom Runner Battery Replacement Guide
|
TomTom Runner
|
Moderate
|
[
"T5 Torx Screwdriver",
"Heavy-Duty Spudger",
"T4 Torx Screwdriver",
"iFixit Opening Tool"
] | 1,200 | 1,200 |
This is a TomTom Runner Battery Replacement Guide guide. Device: TomTom Runner. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: T5 Torx Screwdriver, Heavy-Duty Spudger, T4 Torx Screwdriver, iFixit Opening Tool. Time required: 1200-1200 minutes. Repair steps: 1) First, lift the bottom part of the band to start removing the wristband from the button area of the watch. 2) Continue to lift up on the band until the screen of the watch becomes loose from the band. You may need to apply a small amount of force downward on the face of the screen. Continue to pull up on the wristband until it is completely off the watch. 3) Grab the watch once it is separated from the wristband. 4) Flip over the watch and remove the four 3.0 mm Torx head screws with a T4 Torx head screwdriver. 5) Remove the two 3.0 mm Torx screws from the front. Use a T4 Torx screwdriver to remove the screws. The two 3.0 mm Torx screws are painted blue at the end. These screws have screw holders around them that will also need to be removed. Unscrew the screws from the front of the watch casing and the screw holders fall out from the back of the watch casing. 6) Gently pull the back panel away from the front panel. Do not to pull too fast or too hard. There are red and black wires connected to the vibrator component that should not be ripped. 7) Gently wiggle the black box vibrator component away from the back panel with your fingers or a Spudger tool. Be gentle with the red and black wires. You do not want them to rip or pop out. The vibrator component is the small black box with the silver metal part at end. The black box is glued down, so it will take a little force to free it and it will be sticky. 8) Grab the back panel and a blue, plastic opening tool to pry the black battery pack off the back panel. The battery pack is glued down, so it will be a bit sticky and harder to get off. After removing the battery, you are ready to replace it with a new one. If you need to replace the back panel, you are ready to take out the old battery and place it in the new back panel.
|
guide_overview
|
|
148,359 |
Garmin fenix 6X Sapphire Display Replacement
|
Garmin fenix 6X Sapphire
|
Easy
|
[
"T5 Torx Screwdriver",
"Spudger"
] | 600 | 900 |
This is a Garmin fenix 6X Sapphire Display Replacement guide. Device: Garmin fenix 6X Sapphire. Difficulty: Easy. Tools needed: T5 Torx Screwdriver, Spudger. Time required: 600-900 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Orient the watch so that the screen is face up. Remove the five 6 mm black screws from the perimeter of the watch face using the T5 Torx screwdriver. 2) Carefully lift up the watch face as it's attached to the motherboard by a ribbon connector. Detach the black connector from the motherboard. A spudger can be used if you have trouble prying the piece with your fingers. Don't pull on the ribbon as it could tear. When the ribbon is disconnected remove the watch face.
|
guide_overview
|
|
156,193 |
TicWatch E3 Battery Replacement
|
TicWatch E3
|
Moderate
|
[
"iOpener",
"iFixit Adhesive Remover",
"Isopropyl Alcohol (90% or Greater)",
"Microfiber Cleaning Cloths",
"Heat Gun",
"1 x Opening Picks",
"Spudger",
"ESD Safe Blunt Nose Tweezers"
] | 1,200 | 2,400 |
This is a TicWatch E3 Battery Replacement guide. Device: TicWatch E3. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: iOpener, iFixit Adhesive Remover, Isopropyl Alcohol (90% or Greater), Microfiber Cleaning Cloths, Heat Gun, 1 x Opening Picks, Spudger, ESD Safe Blunt Nose Tweezers. Time required: 1200-2400 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Before starting repairs, take your watch off the charger and power it down. Remove the watch band. 2) Apply a [link| iOpener] to the rear side of the watch for 5 minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath. A hair dryer, [link| gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device. 3) Insert an opening pick into the recess between the watch frame and the top edge of the back cover. Push the opening pick to create a gap between the back cover and the watch frame. 4) Twist the opening pick to widen the gap between the back cover assembly and the watch frame. Pry upward to loosen the back cover assembly. Don't try to remove the back cover assembly all the way yet. It's still connected to the motherboard. 5) Carefully lift up the bottom edge of the back cover assembly to make sure it isn't adhered to the watch frame anymore. Avoid straining or tearing the sensor or battery cables. 6) Grab the back cover assembly and carefully bring it into an upright position next to the watch housing. 7) Use a spudger to disconnect the battery cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket. To re-attach like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage. 8) Use a spudger to disconnect the sensor cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket. 9) Remove the back cover assembly. 10) Apply a [link| iOpener] to the back cover for 2 minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath the battery. A hair dryer, [link| gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device. 11) Reposition the battery and sensor assembly cables by folding the battery cable to the left and then the sensor cable to the right side of the back cover assembly. Do not bend the cables sharply to avoid cable damage. 12) Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the bottom edge of the battery. Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire. Pry upwards to loosen the battery. 13) Remove the battery. Do not reinstall a damaged or deformed battery, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. [guide|113604|Secure the new battery with pre-cut adhesive|new_window=true] or double-sided adhesive tape. In order to position it correctly, apply the new adhesive into the device at the places where the old adhesive was located, not directly onto the battery. Press the new battery firmly into place.
|
guide_overview
|
|
37,852 |
Motorola Moto 360 Battery Replacement
|
Motorola Moto 360
|
Difficult
|
[
"iOpener Kit",
"Jimmy",
"Spudger"
] | 1,200 | 1,500 |
This is a Motorola Moto 360 Battery Replacement guide. Device: Motorola Moto 360. Difficulty: Difficult. Tools needed: iOpener Kit, Jimmy, Spudger. Time required: 1200-1500 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Set the watch face down on a flat surface. Place the heated [guide|11677|iOpener] on the face of the rear cover to loosen the adhesive underneath. 2) Follow the instructions here to remove the back cover without force by using some needles in the right places: Then continue with step 5. Or don't use needles and just continue with the next steps. 3) Gently slide the blue opening pick between the rear cover and the metal casing. The rear cover is extremely fragile. Be very delicate when using the opening pick. Work your way entirely around the rear cover. It may take several attempts of reheating the adhesive to get the rear cover loose enough to pull off. 4) Once the adhesive has been successfully loosened, gently pull the rear cover off. 5) To get to the O-Ring, use the Jimmy to gently pry off the rear housing. 6) Pinch the green rubber O-Ring and slide it off of the watch. The O-Ring is delicate and is easily severed. Use care around sharp objects. 7) Detach the copper ribbon connecting the motherboard and the display. For reassembly, attach copper ribbon where it is marked. The copper ribbon is fragile and easily disconnects. Remember where it goes so as to reconnect it properly. 8) Use the spudger to separate the battery casing from the rear housing. For leverage, place the spudger in either groove in the rear housing. 9) Lift the black plastic pull-tab and pull back on the battery until it's removed from the battery casing. The battery is very firmly secured, so you may have to use a great deal of force. There are two strips of adhesive securing the battery. You may have to use the spudger to loosen the adhesive. Use care not to damage electronics. 10) Once the battery is separate from the back of the battery casing, disconnect the red and black wire by prying or pulling it straight up from the board (perpendicular to the board surface).
|
guide_overview
|
|
115,764 |
Apple Watch Series 3 Screen Replacement
|
Apple Watch Series 3
|
Difficult
|
[
"iOpener",
"Curved Razor Blade",
"iFixit Opening Tool",
"iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6)",
"Tweezers",
"Tri-point Y000 Screwdriver"
] | 7,200 | 10,800 |
This is a Apple Watch Series 3 Screen Replacement guide. Device: Apple Watch Series 3. Difficulty: Difficult. Tools needed: iOpener, Curved Razor Blade, iFixit Opening Tool, iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6), Tweezers, Tri-point Y000 Screwdriver. Time required: 7200-10800 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Before starting repairs, take your watch off the charger and power it down. If your touchscreen is broken and prevents powering off the watch, . 2) (or grab a hair dryer or heat gun) and heat the face of the watch until it's slightly too hot to touch. Leave the iOpener on the watch for at least a minute to fully heat the screen and soften the adhesive holding it to the case. You may need to reheat the iOpener, or move it around on the screen as sections cool, to heat the screen enough to pry it off. 3) Because the gap between the screen and watch body is so thin, a sharp blade is needed to separate the two. '''Read the following warnings carefully before proceeding.''' '''Protect your fingers''' by keeping them completely clear of the knife. If in doubt, protect your free hand with a heavy glove, such as a leather shop glove or gardening glove. Be careful '''not to apply too much pressure,''' as this might cause the knife to slip and cut you, or damage the watch. '''Wear ''' The knife or glass may break, sending pieces flying. Feel free to attach or remove the watch band as needed to provide more control as you make repairs. 4) Place the edge of a curved blade into the thin gap between the display and the outer case. Start at the short side of the display, closest to the digital crown. Press firmly ''straight down'' into the gap. Once inserted, tilt the blade to pry the display open slightly. Do not insert the knife more than 1/16th of an inch (~2 mm). 5) Once you've opened a small gap with the curved blade, remove the blade and insert the thinner edge of an opening tool into the gap. Push the opening tool into the gap, using your thumb as a pivot to lift the display open a bit farther. Don't try to fully open or detach the display yet. 6) Insert an opening pick under the display and carefully separate the Force Touch gasket from the display. iFixit screen and battery repair kits include a replacement Force Touch gasket, so don't fret too much if yours is damaged. Otherwise, to preserve the Force Touch gasket, pry carefully under the edge of the display. If the Force Touch gasket splits when lifting the display, or if you separate the gasket layers, you'll also need to replace the Force Touch gasket itself. Slide the pick around the display to separate the adhesive between the Force Touch gasket and the display. Don't insert the opening pick deeper than 1/16th of an inch (~2 mm). 7) To avoid straining the display cables, don't open the display all the way yet. Open the display to about a 45° angle, and use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to peel off the adhesive between the display and the Force Touch gasket. Thread the adhesive around and behind the display cables to get it off completely. 8) Use a Y000 driver to remove the tri-point screw securing the metal cover plate. Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to remove the cover plate. First open the plate all the way to unhinge the two flaps. Then close it halfway to remove it completely by lifting it out. 9) On the GPS-only version it is possible to disconnect the battery immediately. For the cellular/LTE version, you need to disconnect the Force Touch gasket and fold it out of the way first, in order to disconnect the battery. Disconnect the battery by prying its connector straight up. Bend the connector up slightly to make sure it does not make contact by accident. 10) Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to peel off the tape covering the display cable connectors. Start from the bottom right of the tape and carefully work your way towards the connector in the middle. The tape can be stubborn, so take care not to pull too hard and damage the cables underneath. If needed, apply a little heat or some isopropyl alcohol to help soften the adhesive. 11) The leftmost connector contains a piece of conductive foil, which may tear when taking off the tape. If it tears, grab it from the bottom left to remove it completely. This way the matching foil underneath (on the display) will remain unharmed. 12) Carefully use a pry tool or a clean fingernail to unlock the first of the three connectors by prying up the small black locking flap opposite the cable. 13) Pry up the locking flaps on the remaining two ZIF connectors. Replacement screens usually ship with these locking flaps closed. During reassembly, make sure the flaps are '''open''' before inserting the cables, or you may damage your watch. 14) Use a pair of tweezers to disconnect the display flex cables by gently pulling them out. If the cables are stubborn, try carefully walking them out in a left-to-right-motion while pulling gently. 15) Remove the display. For detailed reassembly instructions, including replacing the Force Touch gasket and surrounding adhesive, see the guide linked in the conclusion below.
|
guide_overview
|
|
50,492 |
Samsung Gear S Home Button Assembly Replacement
|
Samsung Gear S
|
Moderate
|
[
"Metal Spudger",
"iFixit Opening Tool",
"Spudger"
] | 1,800 | 1,800 |
This is a Samsung Gear S Home Button Assembly Replacement guide. Device: Samsung Gear S. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Metal Spudger, iFixit Opening Tool, Spudger. Time required: 1800-1800 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Remove the wrist strap by peeling back the rubber starting from one corner of the watch face. Continue peeling the rubber away from the watch face until the strap is completely off. 2) Starting from an edge, wedge a metal spudger in between the screen and the chrome trim ring and pry, lifting the screen outwards. Some force is needed due to adhesive seal. 3) Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry upwards on the plastic motherboard assembly. 4) Locate the ribbon assembly attaching the display to the motherboard. 5) Use a plastic opening tool to detach the glass screen/ LED Display ribbon connector from the motherboard. 6) Now the watch should be in three separate pieces. 7) Locate the home ribbon connector attached to the wrist side (side that faces the user when wearing it) of the motherboard assembly. Locate the home ribbon assembly attached to the screen side of the motherboard assembly. 8) Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry up on the home ribbon connector. 9) Use the spudger to pry up the home ribbon assembly.
|
guide_overview
|
|
187,571 |
TicWatch Pro 5 Disassembly
|
TicWatch Pro 5
|
Moderate
|
[
"T3 Torx Screwdriver",
"T4 Torx Screwdriver",
"Craft blades",
"Prying Tools",
"Toothpicks",
"Paper Towels",
"Old Toothbruch",
"Flathead 3/32\" or 2.5 mm Screwdriver"
] | 0 | 0 |
This is a TicWatch Pro 5 Disassembly guide. Device: TicWatch Pro 5. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: T3 Torx Screwdriver, T4 Torx Screwdriver, Craft blades, Prying Tools, Toothpicks, Paper Towels, Old Toothbruch, Flathead 3/32" or 2.5 mm Screwdriver. Time required: 0-0 minutes. Repair steps: 1) There are four T4 screws located on the back of the watch that are removed to allow the two halves to come apart (***Circled in Picture***). The screws have a little of the silicone gasket around them that you may want to clean of to make re-installation easier later. Though it appears to be designed for a T4, I found it easier to work with the T3. Once the screws are removed you will need to separate the top and bottom. There is a silicone gasket/seal that is holding the two halves together. I was able to use the blade of a hobby knife in a small gap at the top of the watch, closest to the 4 holes (***Arrow in Picture***). This appears to be the safest starting point since the sensor you are most likely to clip, if you slip through the gasket quicker than expected, is protected by a metal casing. As a gap is created insert another flat pry tool, into the gap so you can use the two to work your way around the edge gently cutting or peeling away the gasket/seal. There are four plastic clips that help hold the top and bottom together without the screws. 2) With the watch open you will be able to see the two ribbon cables connecting the top and bottom of the watch (red square). Using a flat tool you can gently separate the cables from the top of the watch. Parts on the bottom half of the watch that I could identify. ***Battery***: Held in place by double sided tape. (Center of the watch, blue square). ***Speaker***: Additional details in Step 3. (Right edge, orange square). ***Step/Pedometer Sensor***: Connected through the black ribbon cable. (Right side of the bottom edge, yellow square.) ***Unknown Sensor***: This might be a small proximity or pressure sensor, but I'm unsure. It is connected to the black ribbon cable. (Left side of the bottom edge, pink square.) 3) The speaker is held in place by a metal clip that must be flexed outward to remove. Removal of the speaker will take a little effort because of the gasket around it. I was able to get it out by gently prying opposite edges and slowly wiggling it out. The bottom of the speaker has a black gasket and mesh protecting the driver. I used a toothbrush to gently clean away the dirt and debris. 4) ***Speaker***: Insert it back into the hole with the two connection pads on the outside edge and snap the metal clip back into place. ***Ribbon Cables***: Aligning the connectors can be a little tricky, I found it easiest to gently flex the connectors away from the battery and adjust the angle of the connectors. (See first image) ***Gasket \ Seal***: This is a critical part of the reassembly as it will protect the internal components from water and moisture damage. Using a toothpick, apply a thin strip of the the RTV Silicone around the edge of the watch. Applying the silicone under the ribbon cables will be the trickiest part. I achieved this by saving this part for last and holding the bottom half of the watch above the other, ready to put it in place as soon as I was done. I placed a pee size glob of silicone onto a post-it note. Then by rolling the tip of the toothpick in it, I could get a small amount that was easy to apply with relative precision. With the seal in place the top and bottom should gently snap back together. When reinserting the screws gently tighten them in a cross pattern and do not over tighten.
|
guide_overview
|
|
138,364 |
How to open the Huawei Watch GT 2 (46 mm)
|
Huawei Watch GT 2 (46 mm)
|
Moderate
|
[
"Spudger",
"T2 Torx Screwdriver"
] | 300 | 600 |
This is a How to open the Huawei Watch GT 2 (46 mm) guide. Device: Huawei Watch GT 2 (46 mm). Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Spudger, T2 Torx Screwdriver. Time required: 300-600 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Before starting repairs, take your watch off the charger and power it down. Remove the watch band. 2) Remove the four 3.7 mm-long Torx T2 screws. 3) Insert the edge of a spudger into the middle loudspeaker opening at the top edge of your watch. 4) The plastic clamps holding the back cover in place sit very tight and may require some force during the prying procedure. Use the spudger to pry up the back cover assembly of your Huawei watch GT 2. Don't try to remove the back cover assembly all the way yet, it's still connected to the motherboard. 5) Carefully swing the back cover assembly open to an upward position.
|
guide_overview
|
|
137,584 |
TicWatchPro Battery Replacement
|
TicWatchPro
|
Moderate
|
[
"Phillips #00 Screwdriver",
"T3 Torx Screwdriver",
"Spudger",
"iOpener",
"iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6)"
] | 1,800 | 3,600 |
This is a TicWatchPro Battery Replacement guide. Device: TicWatchPro. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Phillips #00 Screwdriver, T3 Torx Screwdriver, Spudger, iOpener, iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6). Time required: 1800-3600 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Before starting repairs, take your watch off the charger and power it down. Remove the four 3.9 mm-long Torx T3 screws. Depending on the condition of your driver, a Torx T4 bit may fit better. Don't try to detach the back cover yet. It is still connected to the watch assembly. 2) Be careful not to strain the sensor flex cable during this procedure. Carefully lift the back cover by the watch crown edge and swing it open to an upward position. 3) Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the sensor flex cable. 4) Remove the back cover. 5) Remove the three 3.7 mm-long Phillips #00 screws. 6) Insert the flat end of a spudger into the notch at the upper end of the white plastic frame. Use your spudger as a lever and pry up the core assembly. Don't try to remove the core assembly all the way yet—it is still connected to the watch body. 7) Carefully lift the loose edge of the core assembly up and swing it to a 100-degree angle. Be careful not to strain the display and sensor flex cables during this procedure. 8) Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the sensor flex cable from the core assembly. 9) Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display flex cable from the core assembly. 10) Remove the core assembly. 11) Use a Phillips driver to remove the screw securing the motherboard. 12) The motherboard is held tightly in place by small, fragile plastic clips. Be very careful as you pry during the following procedure. Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail to carefully bend the plastic clips around the motherboard to the side in order to free the motherboard. Repeat this procedure for all plastic clips around the motherboard. Note that there are also clips underneath the rubber pads covering the two side buttons. Don't try to remove the motherboard all the way yet. It is still connected to the battery. 13) Carefully lift the motherboard assembly to free it from any remaining plastic clips. Don't try to remove the motherboard all the way yet. It is still connected to the battery. 14) Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery flex cable from the motherboard. 15) Apply a to the back of the white plastic frame for at least two minutes to loosen the adhesive beneath the battery. 16) Insert an opening pick in the gap between the white plastic frame and the battery. Use the opening pick to pry the battery up and out of its recess. 17) Remove the battery. Do not reinstall a damaged or deformed battery, as doing so is a potential safety hazard.
|
guide_overview
|
|
134,081 |
Resealing Procedure
|
Apple Watch Series 4
|
Moderate
|
[
"ESD Safe Blunt Nose Tweezers",
"iOpener"
] | 300 | 600 |
This is a Resealing Procedure guide. Device: Apple Watch Series 4. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: ESD Safe Blunt Nose Tweezers, iOpener. Time required: 300-600 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Remove the blue protective film from the adhesive. To simplify the removal you can lift and cut the blue protective film at one point. Avoid cutting the force touch gasket. 2) Align the screen and press it down firmly onto the adhesive. For best results, apply heat from your iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer to help set the adhesive. After the screen sits in place apply some pressure for a few hours by wrapping the watch with a couple rubber bands, or placing it under a heavy book or two.
|
guide_overview
|
|
160,326 |
Motorola Moto 360 3rd Gen Power Button Replacement
|
Motorola Moto 360 3rd Gen
|
Moderate
|
[
"Halberd Spudger",
"T4 Torx Screwdriver",
"Tweezers"
] | 600 | 1,200 |
This is a Motorola Moto 360 3rd Gen Power Button Replacement guide. Device: Motorola Moto 360 3rd Gen. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Halberd Spudger, T4 Torx Screwdriver, Tweezers. Time required: 600-1200 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Use a T4 Torx screwdriver to remove the four 4.2 mm screws securing the lower case. Gently pry the case open with a [product|IF145-374|halberd spudger] if the case will not release after removing the bolts. ***Do not remove the lower case completely yet; this could damage cables connected to the lower case.*** 2) Raise the cover without straining the connected ribbon cable. Disconnect the ribbon cable from the motherboard with a halberd spudger. 3) Disconnect the right (small, black head) and bottom right ribbons (wide, orange head). No need to disconnect the left or bottom left ribbons. 4) Gently remove the motherboard using the spudger tool. The best area to pry is at the bottom of the motherboard, right under one of the ribbons that was just disconnected. 5) While pushing the power button inwards, use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to remove the c-clamp. The c-clamp is a very tiny object; be cautious of losing it. Remove the power button. 6) Insert the new power button in place of the old power button. Attach the c-clamp back around the power button while it is being pushed inwards.
|
guide_overview
|
|
160,131 |
Motorola Moto 360 3rd Gen Charging Coil Replacement
|
Motorola Moto 360 3rd Gen
|
Moderate
|
[
"Halberd Spudger",
"T4 Torx Screwdriver"
] | 600 | 900 |
This is a Motorola Moto 360 3rd Gen Charging Coil Replacement guide. Device: Motorola Moto 360 3rd Gen. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Halberd Spudger, T4 Torx Screwdriver. Time required: 600-900 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Use a T4 Torx screwdriver to remove the four 4.2 mm screws securing the lower case. Gently pry the case open with a [product|IF145-374|halberd spudger] if the case will not release after removing the bolts. ***Do not remove the lower case completely yet; this could damage cables connected to the lower case.*** 2) Raise the cover without straining the connected ribbon cable. Disconnect the ribbon cable from the motherboard with a halberd spudger. 3) Gently wedge a spudger underneath the charging coil ribbon. Carefully pry the charging coil up and remove it from the assembly. 4) Place the new charging coil in the same orientation as the one previously removed. Attach the charging coil ribbon cable to the watch motherboard.
|
guide_overview
|
|
161,370 |
Motorola Moto 360 3rd Gen Lower Case Replacement
|
Motorola Moto 360 3rd Gen
|
Moderate
|
[
"Halberd Spudger",
"T4 Torx Screwdriver"
] | 180 | 300 |
This is a Motorola Moto 360 3rd Gen Lower Case Replacement guide. Device: Motorola Moto 360 3rd Gen. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Halberd Spudger, T4 Torx Screwdriver. Time required: 180-300 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Use a T4 Torx screwdriver to remove the four 4.2 mm screws securing the lower case. Gently pry the case open with a [product|IF145-374|halberd spudger] if the case will not release after removing the bolts. ***Do not remove the lower case completely yet; this could damage cables connected to the lower case.*** 2) Raise the cover without straining the connected ribbon cable. Disconnect the ribbon cable from the motherboard with a halberd spudger.
|
guide_overview
|
|
50,810 |
Samsung Gear 2 Neo Speaker Replacement
|
Samsung Gear 2 Neo
|
Moderate
|
[
"Tweezers",
"T6 Torx Screwdriver",
"iFixit Opening Tool"
] | 600 | 600 |
This is a Samsung Gear 2 Neo Speaker Replacement guide. Device: Samsung Gear 2 Neo. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Tweezers, T6 Torx Screwdriver, iFixit Opening Tool. Time required: 600-600 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Remove the wristband by sliding the metal pins located on both sides of the wrist band, and pulling the wristband off. 2) Use a T5 Torx Screwdriver to remove the 4 (0.4 mm) screws located on the back of the watch. 3) Slide the opening tool in between the two halves of the case and slide along the edge of the watch while gently prying the back cover away from the face of the watch. 4) Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to peel the battery ribbon cable off of the back cover. Avoid damaging the gold terminals on the ribbon cable. When reassembling, make sure that the yellow strip snaps back on to the black pin. The pin is located, and marked on the picture. Pull up on the tab that says, “Pull”, the battery will lift straight out. 5) Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to remove the rubber gasket. It should come off with ease. 6) Using the fine tweezers, pull up on the speaker ribbon cable until separated from the back cover. Make sure to approach it like in the picture otherwise it may not come off cleanly. To lift out the speaker, place the tweezers underneath the speaker at the top left corner of the speaker and pry it up.
|
guide_overview
|
|
110,819 |
How to Repair a Frozen Garmin Fenix 2
|
Garmin Fenix 2
|
Moderate
|
[
"bit.ly/Fenix2jon"
] | 3,300 | 3,300 |
This is a How to Repair a Frozen Garmin Fenix 2 guide. Device: Garmin Fenix 2. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: bit.ly/Fenix2jon. Time required: 3300-3300 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Reset your Garmin Fenix 2 Go to the folder on my Google Drive. Read the PDF file you'll find in the Folder > It explains the process of resetting the FENIX-2. Also, DOWNLOAD the ZIP file in the Folder. You'll need it. All the best. best regards, Jonathan Benjamin. Click here - bit.ly/Fenix2jon My email address is jonathanvarunbenjamin@gmail.com bit.ly/Fenix2jon
|
guide_overview
|
|
102,961 |
Sony Smart Watch SW2 Battery Replacement
|
Sony Smart Watch SW2
|
Moderate
|
[
"Soldering Workstation",
"6-in-1 Screwdriver"
] | 300 | 300 |
This is a Sony Smart Watch SW2 Battery Replacement guide. Device: Sony Smart Watch SW2. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Soldering Workstation, 6-in-1 Screwdriver. Time required: 300-300 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Detach the smart watch from the band by pushing on the back of the watch housing. The power button may fall out once the smart watch is detached. Set aside the power button and watch band as they are no longer needed for further disassembly. 2) Use a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the LCD screen from the watch housing. 3) Use a plastic opening tool or spudger to lift the screen assembly press-fit connector free. 4) Set aside the detached LCD screen to access the battery. 5) Lift one side of the battery up carefully. There is a thin black circuit adhered to the back of the battery that connects to the motherboard and the charger. The connection is already broken in this image and you will not be able to lift the battery this high. 6) Push the black piece down while very carefully pulling the battery off. Work your way around without lifting the black piece up too much. 7) Once the battery is free from the frame adhesive, the black and red battery wires. Remove the battery.
|
guide_overview
|
|
114,362 |
Samsung Gear S3 Frontier Back Cover Replacement
|
Samsung Gear S3 Frontier
|
Moderate
|
[
"Metal Spudger",
"Tri-point Y00 Screwdriver"
] | 480 | 1,800 |
This is a Samsung Gear S3 Frontier Back Cover Replacement guide. Device: Samsung Gear S3 Frontier. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Metal Spudger, Tri-point Y00 Screwdriver. Time required: 480-1800 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Place the watch screen-down so that its back cover is showing. 2) Remove the four 4.2mm screws with a Y00 screwdriver. 3) This step will ruin the water-proof seal. Wedge the metal spudger in between the back cover and the frame along the seam. Use force to pry the back cover away from the main watch frame. This step requires a lot of force. You can use a Jimmy in place of a metal spudger to make the process easier.
|
guide_overview
|
|
100,634 |
Nixon Mission Android Wear Battery Replacement
|
Nixon Mission Android Wear
|
Moderate
|
[
"Phillips #00 Screwdriver",
"Spudger"
] | 600 | 1,200 |
This is a Nixon Mission Android Wear Battery Replacement guide. Device: Nixon Mission Android Wear. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Phillips #00 Screwdriver, Spudger. Time required: 600-1200 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Remove 4 4.5mm Phillips head screws from back side of watch using PH00 Phillips head. 2) Remove the back plate of watch. 3) Unclip 5 latches from motherboard using a plastic spudger. 4) Remove the 2 3.0mm screws from motherboard using PH00 Phillips head. 5) Carefully remove motherboard & internal screen. 6) Remove from the motherboard the connector with the four cables. Pull the cables upward and the motherboard downward as shown in the picture. 7) Carefully remove the battery from the watch.
|
guide_overview
|
|
141,512 |
Garmin Forerunner 620 Battery Replacement
|
Garmin Forerunner 620
|
Moderate
|
[] | 0 | 0 |
This is a Garmin Forerunner 620 Battery Replacement guide. Device: Garmin Forerunner 620. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: No special tools. Time required: 0-0 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Detach the screen. 2) Unscrew the mainboard (2x Torx) 3) Replace (and re-solder) the battery. 4) Replace the screen if necessary. 5) Reassemble and re-glue after testing the device.
|
guide_overview
|
|
144,839 |
How to open the Huawei Watch GT 2e
|
Huawei Watch GT 2e
|
Moderate
|
[
"T3 Torx Screwdriver",
"Spudger",
"Phillips #00 Screwdriver",
"Precision Tweezers Set"
] | 900 | 1,500 |
This is a How to open the Huawei Watch GT 2e guide. Device: Huawei Watch GT 2e. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: T3 Torx Screwdriver, Spudger, Phillips #00 Screwdriver, Precision Tweezers Set. Time required: 900-1500 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Turn off the watch: Press and hold the top button for >3 sec. Tap "Power off". 2) Push the small sliding nub on one of the watch band pins inwards toward the center of the watch band. While holding the nub in, pull one side of the pin out of its recess on the watch housing, then the other side. Remove the band. Repeat this process to remove the second band. 3) Remove the four 3.5 mm-long T3 Torx screws on the back of the watch. 4) Place the point of a spudger in the small hole on the side of the rear case. Use the spudger to push the rear case away from the housing to create a small gap. Use steady force to separate the two parts. Steady the rear case with a finger to avoid it suddenly popping open and damaging the flex cable. Don’t open the rear case all the way just yet. It is still connected to the motherboard with a thin flex cable. 5) Flip the rear case assembly open towards the buttons to access the interconnect flex cable connector. 6) Remove the 2.5 mm-long Phillips screw securing the interconnect cable bracket. When re-assembling you might need a pair of pointy [product|IF145-020-5|angled tweezers] to position the screw since they are non-ferrous and therefore don’t stick to the magnetic bit. 7) Use a pair of tweezers to slide the interconnect cable bracket down and left to unlatch it. Remove the interconnect cable bracket. For reassembly make sure to slide the bracket into place from bottom left towards top right to engage the small latch. 8) Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and unplug the interconnect cable. Remove the rear case assembly.
|
guide_overview
|
|
73,777 |
Fitbit Surge GPS Replacement
|
Fitbit Surge
|
Moderate
|
[
"Pro Tech Toolkit",
"Phillips PH000 Screwdriver",
"Curved Razor Blade"
] | 1,200 | 1,200 |
This is a Fitbit Surge GPS Replacement guide. Device: Fitbit Surge. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Pro Tech Toolkit, Phillips PH000 Screwdriver, Curved Razor Blade. Time required: 1200-1200 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Unscrew all four black 3 mm Phillips screws on the underside of the watch using a T5 screwdriver. 2) Use an X-Acto knife to cut the band above, on either side, and in between the 2 screws. '''Note''': Part of the band is hard plastic. '''Caution''': Once the band is cut it cannot be reattached. 3) Scrape away the glue beneath the hard shell portion of the band to reveal the GPS. 4) Use a PH000 screw head to undo the newly revealed 4 mm Phillips screws that were hidden beneath the glue.
|
guide_overview
|
|
113,777 |
Apple Watch Series 1 Screen Replacement
|
Apple Watch Series 1
|
Difficult
|
[
"iOpener",
"iFixit Opening Tool",
"iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6)",
"Curved Razor Blade",
"Tweezers",
"1.0 mm Flathead Screwdriver",
"Scissors",
"Tri-point Y000 Screwdriver"
] | 3,600 | 7,200 |
This is a Apple Watch Series 1 Screen Replacement guide. Device: Apple Watch Series 1. Difficulty: Difficult. Tools needed: iOpener, iFixit Opening Tool, iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6), Curved Razor Blade, Tweezers, 1.0 mm Flathead Screwdriver, Scissors, Tri-point Y000 Screwdriver. Time required: 3600-7200 minutes. Repair steps: 1) We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener. Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave. For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn. 2) Heat the iOpener for ***thirty seconds***. Depending on the wattage of your microwave, more or less time may be required. The iOpener is sufficiently heated when it's barely too hot to touch. Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time. Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst. Do not attempt to heat over 100˚C (212˚F). Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen. If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes. 3) Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center. The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary. 4) If you don't have a microwave, follow this step to heat your iOpener in boiling water. Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener. Heat the water to a boil. ***Turn off the heat.*** Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water. Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water. Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel. The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful to hold it only by the end tabs. Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes. 5) Before starting repairs, take your watch off the charger and power it down. If your touchscreen is broken and prevents powering off the watch, . 6) (or grab a hair dryer or heat gun) and heat the face of the watch until it's slightly too hot to touch. Leave the iOpener on the watch for at least a minute to fully heat the screen and soften the adhesive holding it to the case. You may need to reheat the iOpener, or move it around on the screen as sections cool, to heat the screen enough to pry it off. 7) Because the gap between the screen and watch body is so thin, a sharp blade is required to separate the two. '''Read the following warnings carefully before proceeding.''' '''Protect your fingers''' by keeping them completely clear of the knife. If in doubt, protect your free hand with a heavy glove, such as a leather shop glove or gardening glove. Be careful '''not to apply too much pressure,''' as this might cause the knife to slip and cut you, or damage the watch. '''Wear ''' The knife or glass may break, sending pieces flying. 8) Using a curved blade minimizes the chance of scratching the case or cracking the glass. Only pry with the curved section of the blade, and not the tip or flat section. Place the curved section of the blade in the gap between the glass and case on the lower edge of the watch face, and press firmly ''straight down'' into the gap. Be very careful to maintain complete control over the knife—once the gap opens, if you're pressing too hard on the knife it may slip in and cut the battery. This should wedge the gap open and cause the glass to lift slightly up from the case. When the glass has lifted, gently rotate the knife down, opening the gap more by pushing the glass up. 9) Once you've opened the gap enough, insert the tip of an opening pick under the glass. Slide the pick along the bottom edge to separate adhesive holding the screen to the case. Be careful not to insert the opening pick too far. Only about 1/8" ( about 3 mm) is necessary, any deeper and you may damage cables. 10) Roll the opening pick up the side of the button side of the watch, gently pushing in to separate the adhesive and widening the gap as you go. Remember not to push the pick in too far—it's easier to avoid this by rolling the pick, rather than dragging a tip along. 11) Work the pick around the top right corner, and roll it along the top edge of the screen. 12) Continue working the pick around the perimeter of the screen, rolling down along the left side to cut the last of the adhesive. Leave the pick in place to keep the adhesive from resealing the screen in place. 13) While holding the first pick in place, use a second to check that all of the adhesive is separated around the entire perimeter of the screen. 14) There are two cables connecting the screen to the inside of the watch, near the top left corner. Be careful when prying or you may damage these cables. Pry slightly up on the right side of the screen, to free it from any remaining adhesive. Pry up on the left to free it as well—but '''do not attempt to remove the screen''' as it is still held in place by two cables. 15) If you can see the top layer of your Force Touch sensor among the display adhesive, it means the two layers of the sensor separated and you're going to need to replace or repair it. iFixit screen and battery repair kits come with a replacement Force Touch sensor, so if you got one of those, don't fret. The top layer of the sensor may be adhered to the back of the screen—if so, push it back down and separate it. 16) Lift the screen up and shift it to the left, minding the display data and digitizer cables. 17) Place the watch on an elevated surface, at least 1/2" or 1 cm tall—a small box or the edge of a book will work great. This will allow the screen to hang down vertically and give better access to the battery. Be careful not to bump the screen or strain the cables while you work. 18) Use scissors to cut one of your opening picks to about the width of the battery. Try not to leave any sharp corners. Insert the modified pick between the right side of the battery and the case. Use constant, steady pressure to ''slowly'' pry the battery up, separating it from the adhesive securing it to the system board. Be careful not to deform or puncture the battery. On the larger (42 mm) models, it's possible to underneath the battery. Insert the pick only far enough to get underneath the battery, not the system board. If needed, apply a little high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) around and under the battery to help weaken the adhesive. '''Do not''' attempt to remove the battery as it is still connected. 19) Rotate the battery counterclockwise to expose its connector. 20) Hold the battery up and out of the way, to expose the battery cable connector. Use a plastic opening tool, prying against the bottom of the case to separate the battery cable connector from the watch's battery cable. Remove the battery from the watch. If the battery is visibly dented or deformed, it should be replaced. For best results, replace with a new battery whenever it is removed. 21) Fold the screen up and over to the right, to expose the cables underneath. 22) The display and digitizer cable connectors are secured beneath a small metal bracket that is adhered to the speaker. Use a plastic opening tool to flip the bracket toward the display and up from the speaker. If you simply pry toward the watch band you may tear the cables. 23) Steady the bracket from the left side using your fingers or [product|IF145-020|tweezers]. At the same time, insert a small (1 mm) flathead screwdriver under the tiny tab on the right. Finally, place one finger behind the tab, and pinch the bracket ''hard'' between your finger and the screwdriver to detach the cover. This releases two slotted tabs that hold the cover to the bracket, and should free the cover. Prying the cover off can be challenging and may take more than one attempt. Be patient, and take care not to pull on the bracket or tear the attached cables. 24) Grab the cover with your tweezers and slide it toward the top of the watch to free the final slotted tab, and remove the cover. 25) Carefully pry up to disconnect the display data and digitizer cables. Be careful not to touch any of the exposed pins directly, as your finger oils may impede connectivity. Remove the display.
|
guide_overview
|
|
108,091 |
Polar V800 Charging Port Cover Replacement
|
Polar V800
|
Easy
|
[
"Paper Clip"
] | 180 | 180 |
This is a Polar V800 Charging Port Cover Replacement guide. Device: Polar V800. Difficulty: Easy. Tools needed: Paper Clip. Time required: 180-180 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Using a narrow object like a paperclip, push the pins located in the watch band in the direction of the arrow indicated on the watch. Completely pull out the pins. It isn't necessary to remove the watch band before replacing other parts of the watch, but it may make removal of other elements of the watch more accessible and clear. When replacing the charging port cover, only take out the pin that is closest to the charging port cover. 2) To remove the watch band, pull each end of the watch band away from the watch frame. 3) Take off the charging port cover.
|
guide_overview
|
|
113,632 |
Garmin Fenix 3 Wrist Strap Replacement
|
Garmin Fenix 3
|
Easy
|
[
"T6 Torx Screwdriver"
] | 300 | 300 |
This is a Garmin Fenix 3 Wrist Strap Replacement guide. Device: Garmin Fenix 3. Difficulty: Easy. Tools needed: T6 Torx Screwdriver. Time required: 300-300 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Identify the screws near the bases of two wrist straps. 2) Hold one screwdriver firmly in one hand, as demonstrated in the image. 3) Secure the watch in the same hand, positioning the screwdriver over the screw. 4) Once the watch is secure, insert the screwdriver into the screw, and hold firmly. 5) With the watch and the first screwdriver secure, insert the second screwdriver into the opposite screw. Holding the first screwdriver firmly, unscrew using the second screwdriver. 6) Remove the bar from the wrist strap to release. Depending on which side the bar is inserted, you may end up loosening the screw instead of the bar. Keep this in mind to avoid losing your screws. 7) Repeat this process for the other side, adjusting the position of the watch accordingly.
|
guide_overview
|
|
145,951 |
Samsung Galaxy Watch4 Classic Battery Replacement
|
Samsung Galaxy Watch 4 Classic
|
Moderate
|
[
"iFixit Opening Tool",
"Tri-point Y00 Screwdriver",
"Spudger",
"Phillips #00 Screwdriver"
] | 1,200 | 2,700 |
This is a Samsung Galaxy Watch4 Classic Battery Replacement guide. Device: Samsung Galaxy Watch 4 Classic. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: iFixit Opening Tool, Tri-point Y00 Screwdriver, Spudger, Phillips #00 Screwdriver. Time required: 1200-2700 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Before starting repairs, take your watch off the charger and power it down. Remove the watch band. 2) Use a Tri-point Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 4.0 mm-long screws securing the back cover. 3) Insert an opening tool into the seam between the back cover and the metal housing. Twist the opening tool to create a gap. Don't try to remove the back cover all the way yet. The sensor flex cable is still connected to the motherboard. 4) Lay the watch face down. Carefully swing open the back cover by folding it to the opposite site of the created gap. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the sensor flex cable from the motherboard. 5) Remove the back cover. Make sure the rubber gasket is undamaged. If damaged, replace it with a new one during reassembly to maintain proper water resistance. 6) Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the hall sensor flex cable. 7) Use a spudger to disconnect the display flex cable. 8) Use a spudger to disconnect the crown button flex cable. 9) Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 4.4 mm-long screw securing the motherboard. 10) Use your fingers to lift the motherboard out from the watch assembly towards the bottom of the watch. During reassembly, make sure none of the flex cables become trapped underneath the motherbaord. 11) The battery is held in place with light adhesive. Place the flat end of a spudger in the small gap between the plastic frame and the battery, opposite to the display cable. Carefully lever the battery up and out of its recess. Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a thermal event. Don't try to remove the battery completely yet, as its connector is still adhered to the core assembly. 12) Lift the battery up a little in order to access its glued down connector cable. Use a pair of [product|IF145-020-4|blunt tweezers] to lift up the battery connector which is secured with some light adhesive. You will most likely be able to re-use the adhesive to fix the new battery in place. If not, replace it with [guide|113604|double sided or pre-cut adhesive tape|new_window=true]. Remove the battery.
|
guide_overview
|
|
62,832 |
Samsung Galaxy Gear Display Housing Replacement
|
Samsung Galaxy Gear
|
Easy
|
[
"iFixit Opening Tool",
"T5 Torx Screwdriver"
] | 60 | 60 |
This is a Samsung Galaxy Gear Display Housing Replacement guide. Device: Samsung Galaxy Gear. Difficulty: Easy. Tools needed: iFixit Opening Tool, T5 Torx Screwdriver. Time required: 60-60 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the '''four''' 4.0 mm screws on the back of the device. Be sure your device is turned off. 2) Use a plastic opening tool to separate the display housing from from the device. To ensure you don't damage your device, insert the opening tool and slide it the entire length of the gap on both sides of the device. 3) Gently pry back the metal flap on top of the connector. Locate the two 2.0 mm black screws and unscrew using a Phillips PH00 bit. The connector will detach from the device.
|
guide_overview
|
|
42,991 |
LG G Watch Spring Bar Pin Replacement
|
LG G Watch
|
Easy
|
[
"Tweezers"
] | 0 | 0 |
This is a LG G Watch Spring Bar Pin Replacement guide. Device: LG G Watch. Difficulty: Easy. Tools needed: Tweezers. Time required: 0-0 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Spring bars attach the two halves of the wristband to the watch body. The spring bar has a shoulder on either end. Be prepared to apply some pressure with your fingers to perform the following action. First, slide the wristband down on the spring bar to expose the shoulder of the spring bar. Grasp the exposed shoulder with the [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to perform the next step. 2) This is a challenging step. Do it carefully to prevent the spring bar from flying out of the wristband. Use the tweezer to depress the spring bar so that it collapses by a few millimeters and pops out of the hole that was holding it in place. Now carefully pull the other end of the spring bar to detach the wristband from the watch face. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the other wristband. 3) Slide the spring bar pin out of the wristband. Repeat this step for the other wristband.
|
guide_overview
|
|
167,461 |
Garmin Vívoactive 4 Battery Replacement
|
Garmin Vívoactive 4
|
Moderate
|
[
"Jimmy",
"Halberd Spudger",
"Phillips #00 Screwdriver",
"Heat Gun",
"Spudger",
"iOpener"
] | 2,700 | 3,600 |
This is a Garmin Vívoactive 4 Battery Replacement guide. Device: Garmin Vívoactive 4. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Jimmy, Halberd Spudger, Phillips #00 Screwdriver, Heat Gun, Spudger, iOpener. Time required: 2700-3600 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Flip the watch on its back to reveal the watch band connection pins. 2) Wedge your fingernail or the tip of a spudger underneath the watch band's small metal pin. Push on the pin to release the strap from it's hinge. Pull the strap away from the watch to disconnect it. The strap will not pull away if the pin isn't fully pushed in. 3) With both straps removed, a new replacement watch band may be inserted. 4) Use a heatgun to loosen the adhesive beneath the screen, it should take a 5-10 minutes for adhesive to loosen. Handle the watch with care to avoid burning yourself after it has been heated. Review the [guide|151116|How to Use a Heat Gun to Soften Adhesive|new_window=true] guide. 5) Wedge a thin opening tool or your iFixit Jimmy in between the seam where the screen and the watch’s housing connect. Pry the screen off the device. There is a cable underneath the screen that needs to be disconnected - be careful not to rip it. Work quickly so the adhesive doesn’t cool too much. 6) Carefully disconnect both cables from the motherboard by placing the tip of your spudger under the edge of the connector, and prying the connector straight up from its socket. 7) Remove the screen. 8) Carefully peel off the ribbon tape that is holding down the motherboard. 9) Place the tip of your spudger under the edge of the connector, and pry the connector straight up from its socket to disconnect the battery from the motherboard. Do this carefully to avoid ripping the cable. 10) Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the 3.2 mm screw on the motherboard. Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the 4.8 mm screw on the motherboard. 11) Pull the battery cable up to dislodge the motherboard. Gently remove the motherboard from the socket. The motherboard may get caught under the housing due to the clips on the edge. 12) Use the pointed tip of a spudger to carefully push on each side of the battery connector to disconnect the battery from the motherboard. 13) Use a spudger to pry the battery from the case. Be careful not to damage any surrounding components. There is an adhesive holding the battery down. Use an [guide|11677|iOpener|new_window=true] if it is too difficult to remove the battery with the spudger alone.
|
guide_overview
|
|
177,898 |
Apple Watch SE Watch Band Replacement
|
Apple Watch SE
|
Moderate
|
[
"Apple Watch band",
"Cotton Swabs",
"Cotton Ball",
"Microfiber Cleaning Cloths"
] | 240 | 240 |
This is a Apple Watch SE Watch Band Replacement guide. Device: Apple Watch SE. Difficulty: Moderate. Tools needed: Apple Watch band, Cotton Swabs, Cotton Ball, Microfiber Cleaning Cloths. Time required: 240-240 minutes. Repair steps: 1) Turn off your device by holding down the side button until the slider appears. Tap the Power button at the top right hand corner. Slide the Power Off slider to the right. 2) Lay your Apple Watch face down on a soft, clean surface to avoid scratching the screen. 3) Hold down one of the release buttons on the back of the device, and slide out its corresponding band at the same time. This may take some effort. If the band does not slide out, press down the release button again and make sure to hold it down. 4) Repeat Step 3 with the other side of the band. 5) Gently wipe any residue off of the back of the watch using a gentle towel, cotton swab, or cotton ball. Do not use any abrasive chemicals. 6) Take the new watch band and make sure the side of the band with metal connectors is facing the watch, and the correct orientation is followed. 7) Gently slide the new band into the slot. It will click into place when it is properly secured. Repeat on the other side.
|
guide_overview
|
End of preview. Expand
in Data Studio
Electronics Repair Dataset
A comprehensive mini dataset covering smartwatch and other wearable repair and teardown procedures.
Dataset Overview
This dataset contains 4,649 carefully examples
Dataset Structure
Each example contains rich metadata and high-quality repair images:
{
'guide_id': 37170,
'task_title': 'Microsoft Band Wrist Clasp Replacement',
'device_name': 'Microsoft Band',
'difficulty': 'Easy',
'tools': ['T3 Torx Screwdriver'],
'time_required_min': 300,
'time_required_max': 600,
'image_path': <PIL.Image(512, 512)>, # High-quality repair image
'text': 'This is a Microsoft Band Wrist Clasp Replacement guide...',
'type': 'guide_overview' # or 'step_instruction', 'teardown_analysis'
}
Quick Start
from datasets import load_dataset
# Load the complete dataset
dataset = load_dataset("ankithreddy/repairdataset-mini")
# Access examples
example = dataset['train'][0]
image = example['image_path'] # PIL Image object
instruction = example['text'] # Repair instruction text
device = example['device_name'] # Target device
# Filter by category
repair_guides = dataset['train'].filter(lambda x: x['type'] == 'guide_overview')
teardowns = dataset['train'].filter(lambda x: x['type'] == 'teardown_analysis')
steps = dataset['train'].filter(lambda x: x['type'] == 'step_instruction')
This dataset was created using publicly available data from here https://www.ifixit.com/api/2.0/doc for research and educational purposes only. All data belongs to iFixit and respective contributors
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